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ROSES, Spain — Spain’s elBulli, repeatedly voted the world’s best restaurant before it closed over a decade ago, is set to reopen as a museum dedicated to the culinary revolution it sparked.

Nestled in an isolated cove on Spain’s northeastern tip, the museum is dubbed “elBulli1846” — a reference to the 1,846 dishes ground-breaking chef Ferran Adria says were developed at the eatery.

“It’s not about coming here to eat, but to understand what happened in elBulli,” the 61-year-old told AFP near the kitchen of the restaurant he ran for over two decades.

The museum will open on June 15, nearly 12 years after the restaurant served its final dish to the public.

Visitors will be able to see hundreds of photos, notebooks, trophies and models made of plastic or wax that emulate some of the innovative dishes which were served at the eatery.

Adria pioneered the culinary trend known as molecular gastronomy, which deconstructs ingredients and recombines them in unexpected ways.

The results are foods with surprising combinations and textures, such as fruit foams, gazpacho popsicles and caramelised quails.

Under Adria’s watch elBulli achieved the coveted Michelin three-star status and was rated the world’s best restaurant a record five times by British magazine The Restaurant.

“What we did here was find the limits of what can be done in a gastronomic experience,” Adria said.

“What are the physical, mental and even spiritual limits that humans have. And that search paved paths for others.”

– ‘Passion for cuisine’ –
Some of the world’s most famous chefs were trained by Adria at elBulli, including Denmark’s Rene Redzepi of Noma and Italy’s Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana.

A foundation set up to maintain elBulli’s legacy invested 11 million euros ($11.8 million) in the museum.

Plans to expand the building on the idyllic Cala Montjoi cove near the towns of Roses had to be adjusted after they ran into opposition form environmentalists.

Adria headed to the white-walled restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean in 1983 for a one month internship on the recommendation of a friend.

He was invited to join the restaurant’s staff as a line cook the following year, and became its solo head chef in 1987.

Adria bought the restaurant in 1990 with his business partner Juli Soler, who passed away in 2015.

“The most important thing that happened to me at elBulli is that I discovered for the first time passion for cuisine,” he said.

“At the table, when the staff ate together, we did not talk about football, or our weekends, we talked about cuisine.”

 

– ‘Right to close’ –
The restaurant opened usually just six months of the year to give Adria and his staff time to conceive new dishes.

The meal consisted of a set menu comprising dozens of small dishes which cost around 325 euros, including a drink, when the restaurant closed in 2011.

A team of 70 people prepared the meals for the 50 guests who managed to get a reservation.

Adria said he accepted that his culinary innovations did not please everyone.

“In the end they are new things and it’s a shock after the other, it is normal that it makes you reflect on what you like,” he said.

In the final years of the restaurant, demand for reservations was so high that Adria allocated seats mostly through a lottery.

When Adria decided to close the restaurant, he justified the move saying it “had become a monster”.

“I was very certain that we were right to close. We had reached what we felt was a satisfactory experience at the maximum level,” Adria told AFP.

“And once we reached it we said ‘why do we have to continue?’. The mission of elBulli was not this, it was finding the limits,” he added.

 
 

Iyinoluwa Aboyeji might not have the personal wealth of Elon Musk or Mark Zuckerberg, but his level of success as an African entrepreneur bears comparison with any Silicon Valley tech titan.

While still in his twenties, the Nigerian co-founded two "unicorns", an industry term for companies that achieve a valuation of more than $1 billion (R18.9 billion).

By most counts, Africa has produced only seven unicorns compared with more than 700 in the United States.

Aboyeji, who has many of the trappings of a global tech boss - he is often known simply as "E" and he wants to build a city devoted to tech - says African

entrepreneurs should have big ambitions.

But they cannot simply copy-paste from the playbooks of Zuckerberg or Musk.

"We admire these guys, they're inspirations," he told AFP over the phone from an investor conference in the United States.

"But when we're looking for a path we don't look to them because they've got a completely different reality from ours. You've got to find your own way."

Now 32, Aboyeji now spends much of his time funding startups, having left his posts in both of his unicorns - fintech firm Flutterwave and training platform Andela, which counted Zuckerberg as an investor.

"Now I'm the coach, I take a backseat," he said with a laugh. "I had my time in the spotlight, I played well."

His Future Africa firm, one of the continent's biggest startup funds, is preparing to launch a new round of investing.

But it comes as tech firms across the world have slashed workers, and venture capitalists have tightened their purse strings.

An African Delaware 

The global downturn has seriously hampered African tech startups.

They attracted more than $2 billion (R37.9 billion) in funding during the first quarter last year but this year's figure is less than half that amount, according to specialist publication The Big Deal.

The gloomy figures do not dim Aboyeji's confidence.

He said: 

It feels like the recession really unlocked people's ability to build all of a sudden.

His firm Future Africa has invested more than $10 million (189.6 million) in dozens of projects, many of them fintech startups trying to improve access to loans and banking services.

Future Africa helps them launch their ideas and get further funding.

But Aboyeji still has an eye for a grand scheme - he is helming a project to build a city devoted to tech talent.

"Think Delaware, but for Lagos," he said, referencing the tiny US state with low taxes that hosts many international companies.

The project, called Itana, aims to house thousands of tech workers and give firms tax breaks and other incentives - with a likely budget of $500 million (R9.4 billion).

Silicon Valley libertarian ideologue Peter Thiel is among the backers.

Like similar attempts to create such "charter cities", critics have said Itana will be a tax haven or an opt-out from state control.

Aboyeji and his partners have repeatedly denied that, insisting Itana is located within an established free trade zone and will respect Nigerian law.

– Youth ‘are not bums’ –
Aboyeji is the son of a pastor and often talks about his religious convictions, describing himself as a “faith-driven investor”.

“I invest in companies that have redemptive qualities. They save people, they improve people’s lives,” he said.

“They transform communities just like my faith does.”

Aboyeji, who spent time at university in Canada and praises the United States as “the capital of capital”, has a talent for teachable stories and has been a regular on the TED talk circuit for years.

He said the insight that led him to launch his investing career came a decade ago when he saw thousands of young Nigerians gathered in a football stadium trying to get permission to emigrate and get jobs.

“You’re not dealing with bums, you’re dealing with people who are desperate for opportunity,” he said.

He agonised over how investors could help to raise incomes in a country where more than half the population are under 18.

“It can’t be with agriculture, and it can’t be manufacturing. It is the internet,” he said, adding that the possibilities were limitless.

For example, African entrepreneurs can legitimately think about space travel, he said, especially if their ideas can help communications in the way that Musk’s StarLink mini-satellites have.

“Never say never,” he said. “But we’re not going to do space exploration or space tourism.

“I don’t think we’re there yet. I’ll leave that for my kids to contemplate.”

 
 

Washington, United States  - Like Claire, millions of employees across the United States have grown fond of telework since the Covid-19 lockdown and now companies are struggling to bring them back to the office.

Before Covid-19, Americans workers had grown used to less-than-friendly job conditions, such as short vacations and little or no maternity leave, but the experience of working from home left them wanting more. “All of these practices that workers had become accustomed to in the US before have now then kind of disrupted by the pandemic,” chief economist Nela Richardson with the ADP Research Institute told AFP. American offices are still half-empty compared to February 2020, according to a weekly average calculated by Kastle, which manages the entry badges of 40,000 companies around the country.

‘The world is changing’

There are also wide disparities between different regions and cities: offices in California’s Silicon Valley, for example, have only recovered a third of their pre-pandemic occupants, compared with around half in New York and Washington, and as much as two-thirds in the Texas cities of Austin and Houston. “Collaborating and inventing is easier and more effective when we’re in person,” Amazon CEO Andy Jassy wrote in a memo to the company’s vast workforce back in February, ordering them to return to the office for at least three days a week.

Many Amazon employees disagreed so strongly with the in-person working requirements that they took to the streets in front of the company’s Seattle headquarters last month to protest the move. “The world is changing, and Amazon needs to embrace the new reality of remote and flexible work,” the organizers of the demonstration said in a statement. Elon Musk, the billionaire boss of Tesla and Twitter, went a step further than Jassy, banning telework in the name of productivity and morality. “You’re going to (tell) the people who make your food that gets delivered, that they can’t work from home, the people that come fix your house, they can’t work from home, but you can?” he said in a recent interview.

Half-empty offices

A third of employees in the United States currently have complete freedom about where they work, compared with just 18 percent in France, according to a recent ADP study of 17 countries. “If I worked for an employer that required five days a week, I just don’t think that would be on the table for me,” Claire, the Washington-based consultant, told AFP. Claire, who requested anonymity to discuss her employment, goes to the office irregularly, usually once every two weeks, sometimes more often. And, given the upsides, she can’t see herself going back full-time.

 
 

London (AFP) – Some of the most notorious art forgeries form the centre-piece of a new London show, which reveals a cat-and-mouse world of intrigue, deception and painstaking detective work.

The exhibition, which opens at the Courtauld in Somerset House features around 25 drawings and seven paintings, as well as sculpture and decorative art from the renowned gallery's collection.

Armed with magnifying glasses, visitors can scrutinise purported masterpieces by Sandro Botticelli, John Constable, and Auguste Rodin.

Visitors will learn how they were created, the methods of the most infamous forgers and the increasingly sophisticated methods used to detect them.

"Forgeries have always existed in the history of art and have a place in our study," Rachel Hapoienu, drawings cataloguer at the gallery, told AFP.

Hapoienu highlighted one work thought to be by English artist Constable, which came from a sale from his daughter Isabel.

"We thought we had a straight line back to the artist," said Hapoienu, but a shock discovery proved them wrong.

Shining a torch through the work revealed a watermark on the paper that dated it to the 1840s -- after Constable had died.

"There is a sizeable group of paintings and drawings that came from John Constable's children and grandchildren which were... probably made by one of his sons," said Hapoienu.

"Whether they were trying to perpetrate fraud...is up or debate."

 

'National hero'

The show also highlights the infamous tale of British forger Eric Hebborn, who operated from 1950s until he was exposed in the 1970s.

Hebborn was classically trained at the prestigious Royal Academy, winning many awards while a student.

 

Men's fashion week wraps up in Milan Tuesday after five days of catwalk shows presenting the luxury market's Spring-Summer 2024 collections.

 

How big tech embraced disabled users


Paris, France - Buried beneath the hype of the artificial intelligence revolution, big tech is quietly rolling out services for disabled people that it hopes will push a greater transformation for customers.

Apple and Google are leading the field, harnessing the sensors and cameras of their best-selling smartphones that allow users to edit, enhance and improve their photos and audio.

Among the latest announcements, Apple unveiled its Live Speech feature in May that uses machine learning -- the term Apple uses for AI -- to re-create a user's voice.

The idea is to allow people who are at risk of losing the ability to speak to type messages and have them read out in their natural voices.

Google, meanwhile, is testing an upgrade to its Lookout app, a program that describes images to blind people and those with impaired vision.

The new version, Google says, will use AI to identify objects without the need for labelling.

 

- Digital 'kerb cuts' -

 

Both firms are keen to portray this as the norm.

"We try and put a lot of time in, early and often," Sarah Herrlinger, who leads Apple's accessibility projects, told AFP during a recent tech event in Paris.

When asked about the process behind developing a product like the Vision Pro -- a headset launched to great fanfare earlier this month -- she said the idea was "to make sure that, when we are at the point of making an announcement like that, we can say we've been thoughtful about this".

Google's accessibility chief Eve Andersson makes a similar point, telling AFP hundreds of people worked full-time on accessibility at the company.

"What's even more important is that we expect accessibility to be a core part of everybody's job who is creating products," she said.

If there is discord between the firms' approaches, it is more in emphasis than practicalities.

While Herrlinger stresses the rigour of Apple's targeting, Andersson is keen to talk up the way that such features end up improving everyone's lives.

She describes it as a digital "kerb cut", an idea named after the initiative to lower kerbs on pavements that was initially intended to help wheelchair users but also helped people with pushchairs, bicycles or those carrying anything awkward.

Andersson cites digital kerb cuts such as autocorrect, autocomplete and voice recognition software.

"A lot of this was originally developed as accessibility technology that now it's just productivity-enhancing, for all of us," she said.

 

- 'Marketplace reality' -

 

Google and Apple are among the most well-known brands on the planet and both describe how they develop accessibility features by gathering feedback from their vast numbers of users.

They are also among the richest firms, so they can go into fine-grain detail in their product planning.

Herrlinger said Apple had worked closely with Team Gleason, a charity formed by ex-American football player Steve Gleason who was diagnosed with amyotrophic lateral sclerosis (ALS), a rare, incurable and debilitating disease.

Apple worked with his foundation to make sure its products would work for those suffering from ALS.

But Apple and Google are not the only ones developing accessibility tech -- the widening availability of AI models has sparked huge creativity.

Microsoft has developed SeeingAI, which describes photos for visually impaired people, and there are a host of startups in the field.

French firm Sonar Vision is developing technology to guide visually impaired people around cities, and Equally AI is harnessing the ChatGPT bot to improve the accessibility of websites.

Manuel Pereira of the French Valentin Hauy association, which campaigns for greater accessibility, reckons AI has the potential to give blind and visually impaired people more autonomy.

But he had a warning for the companies in the field.

"If we fall into an economic model that emphasises profitability, the door can close as quickly as it opened," he said.

Google's Andersson makes the opposite point, saying the realisation that one billion people live with disabilities has jolted companies into realising what this could mean for their bottom line.

"It's marketplace reality, not every company does it out of the goodness of their hearts," she said.

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© Agence France-Presse

 


Exmouth, United Kingdom - A leisure centre in Exmouth, southwest England, is using a small data centre to heat its indoor swimming pool, trialling an innovative solution that reduces its energy bills and carbon footprint.

An on-site installation captures heat generated by a bank of computers, bringing the oil that captures the excess heat.

25-metre swimming pool to the required temperature around 65 percent of the time, cutting reliance on gas boilers.

Deep Green, the UK company behind the project, gives the heat away for free and covers its own electricity costs but charges clients to use its computers that can power machine learning and artificial intelligence.

"It's a symbiotic relationship. We get our computers cooled for free," Deep Green CEO Mark Bjornsgaard told AFP at the Exmouth Leisure Centre, their flagship site.

"The pool is doing an equally big favour as we are."

Bjornsgaard lifted the lid of a white dishwasher-sized box, revealing computers immersed in a mineral

The oil then flows into a heat exchanger where it meets cold water from the pool.

"Normal data centres are simply venting that heat. They use an enormous amount of water to evaporate the heat away," Bjornsgaard said, adding that 99 percent of this heat is wasted into the atmosphere.

According to Bjornsgaard, around half of the cost of running a data centre goes towards keeping the computers cool.

"We don't have those costs. So from an environmental and sustainable point of view, it's a very good thing to do," he said.

 

- 'Significant savings' -

 

Peter Gilpin, CEO of LED Community Leisure, which runs the swimming pool, said the deployment of the Deep Green technology has been "very timely" after Russia's invasion of Ukraine last year sent energy prices soaring.

Utilities usually account for about a third of the total costs of running the leisure centre and the swimming pool's annual gas bill had more than tripled to nearly £80,000 ($102,000) before they installed the data centre in March, he added.

"We have been hit quite hard by that rising cost of gas through the winter but hopefully next winter a very large proportion of our heating costs will come through the Deep Green technology," Gilpin said.

While it's early to judge results over a long period of time, they are seeing "reductions in our gas consumption already" and "significant savings" even with energy costs coming down in recent months.

He added that "not only it reduces our energy costs and our gas consumption, which was the primary benefit but... we reduce our carbon footprint".

Gilpin said they are "proud" to have been the first site to deploy Deep Green's technology and are now looking into installing it at the other swimming pools that they run.

But now they might have competition.

Bjornsgaard said they have seen "demand go through the roof", with thousands of potential sites across Europe wanting to deploy their technology, especially swimming pools and district heating systems.

At the same time more and more companies are looking to use Deep Green computers because its "environmentally friendly" and "way cheaper than their normal cloud provider", Bjornsgaard said.

"But also we're doing some social good, right? We're heating a swimming pool and helping swimming pools to stay open," he added.

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© Agence France-Presse

Kobarid, Slovenia -When Ana Ros started as a chef in Slovenia, all she had were some cookbooks and a bit of a "crazy" personality, as she herself puts it.

Now the self-taught cook -- who was named the world's best woman chef in 2017 -- has her two Michelin stars tattooed on her fingers, and is helping make her small Alpine homeland one of Europe's prime gastronomic destinations.

Ros quickly found she had a talent for "matching crazy flavours", like coffee pasta with sea bass, lemon foam and basil, one of the early dishes that helped make her name.

"Like a painter sees colours, the chef sees flavours, and I was always very well known for using very strong flavour combinations," the 50-year-old told AFP at her restaurant in the Soca valley close to the border with Italy.

Hisa Franko -- which Ros has been running for the last 20 years -- currently ranks 32nd in the World's 50 Best Restaurants list.

But it is not the only restaurant of note in the country sandwiched between Italy, Austria and Croatia.

The Michelin guide recommends 58 there, saying Slovenia "is asserting itself as a gastronomic destination whose potential and quality are constantly improving."

 

- 'Cooking from scratch' -

 

And a large part of that is down to innovative chefs like Ros, who has also featured in Netflix's "Chef's Table" series.

Hisa Franko was a family inn serving traditional fare when Ros's partner at the time, Valter Kramer, took it over from his parents in 2002.

Ros decided to join her husband in the restaurant, following her heart rather than pursuing her ambitions to pursue a diplomatic career in Brussels.

"At the beginning, it was just like cooking for survival... I started cooking from scratch," said the chef.

Right from the start, Ros developed a particular way of making "flavours hit your mind".

"Because my food is all about my character. A bit crazy... still childish" to some extent, she said.

Ros said her food is a combination of understanding the regional traditions and seasonality, but also her own personality.

After years of hard work, news about the remote restaurant with a talented woman chef started spreading, and Ros is now regarded as one of the world's best in a field still dominated by men.

"Sometimes you look like an exotic animal," she said. "But of course, the picture is changing with the new generation, who are super talented and super ambitious."

Hisa Franko now has a team of 40 people from around 20 countries working in her kitchen and she plans to open a bistro in the Slovenian capital Ljubljana.

The day she talked to AFP, her kitchen was turning out a starter of deer heart, oyster, kiwi and beetroot with mountain greens.

 

- 'Like a big family' -

 

The country's cuisine "is one of a kind" and deserves a place on the culinary map, according to Lior Kochavy, a founder of a weekly street food festival in the capital that also brings together leading restaurants.

"You will never be bored. There is all the time something new to try," he said.

With Slovenia a melting pot of Latin, Slavic and Germanic influences, other chefs also say they attract diners by honouring traditions, seasonality and sourcing food locally.

"We've always tried to make sure the distance between the field and the plate is as short as possible," said Tomaz Kavcic, who runs the one-star Michelin Gostilna pri Lojzetu (Lojze's Inn).

"In the past that might not have been appreciated much, but now it is very valued," he told AFP. His menu "writes itself with just the products we see" from the restaurant's terrace on a vineyard-covered hill.

Ros, too, said Slovenians have "always been using nature as their market".

"Farmers and foragers -- you grow with them, you learn from them, you teach them. It's kind of like a big family," she said.

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© Agence France-Presse

Months after the spectacular launch of ChatGPT, the AI revolution is well underway but hints of caution are emerging, especially over letting one or two companies reign supreme.

The release of the poem-churning app by San Francisco-based OpenAI came at an opportune time for tech, landing just when the US giants were laying off thousands of workers and startups faced a funding winter after the collapse of cryptocurrencies. 

While generative AI’s powers spooked many, even drawing calls for a freeze in its development, the tech world welcomed the respite from an otherwise miserable 2022 when a pandemic-era tech boom imploded. 

But the crowds of startups and their backers meeting at the three-day Collision conference in Toronto heard second thoughts about artificial intelligence, even if convictions remained strong that it was here to stay.

“We’re about three steps into a 10K race,” said Adam Selipsky, the head of Amazon-owned AWS, the world’s biggest cloud company that is set to see a huge windfall from the AI excitement.

“The question is: where are the runners going? What’s the course like? Who’s watching the race?” Selipsky told a packed conference hall near the shores of Lake Ontario.

AWS is the archrival of Microsoft, the Redmond, Washington-based company that took the world by surprise earlier this year by diving head first into the ChatGPT goldrush.

Microsoft’s investment of billions of dollars into OpenAI launched an AI arms race, with Google following course by ramping up its release of AI-infused products, goading any company involved with technology to hurry out new capabilities.

“Like a lot of things, I think AI is overhyped in the short term and underhyped in the long term,” said Jordan Jacobs of Radical Ventures, a venture capital firm that has invested heavily in AI.

“But the difference with AI is that once you deploy it, it gets better and better and better,” meaning there is a real downside to coming in second place. 

He said this was not the case with the advent of the personal computer or the smartphone, when those who waited, like Apple, were the companies that won.

The benefit of coming out first seems to leave OpenAI and its powerful Microsoft backer in the driver’s seat.

But AWS’s Selipsky and others cautioned about going all-in with one big company, especially with a technology that voraciously feeds off data and computing power.

– ‘Choice’ –

Hundreds of companies and governments have gone as far to ban their employees from using ChatGPT, worried that sensitive information will be uploaded to strengthen OpenAI’s large language model, becoming available to all.

One of the “most important things that we hear from customers around the world all the time is choice,” Selipsky said.

“The world needs access to a whole bunch of models in a place that you trust and with the security you demand,” he said.

At Collision, Booking.com, the online travel giant, announced a new product using OpenAI’s ChatGPT that will provide a conversational experience for users planning trips.

“This is just a start,” Rob Francis, chief technology officer of Booking.com told AFP, all the while defending the company’s turn to OpenAI.

Models from the likes of OpenAI or Google, “they’re great for general purpose” like a chat about holiday plans, he said. 

But for more sensitive uses, companies will “start to run their own more tailored models, in their own environment,” he said.

As the world’s biggest companies rushed out their AI products, the startup community was warned not to take too much solace from the hype sparked by ChatGPT.

Even if generative AI has caught the world’s attention, “people are still approaching startup investment through a cautionary lens,” Vincent Harrison of PitchBook, the business research company, told AFP. 

“Deal activity is down, fundraising is down, the IPO environment is probably the worst that it’s been since the global financial crisis,” Harrison said.

“I think ChatGPT blew the minds of a lot of people… but is AI enough to bring things where we saw them in 2021? I don’t think so.”

 

 

Miura, Japan - It's cheap, recycled, and has centuries of tradition: "shimogoe" or "fertiliser from a person's bottom" is finding new favour in Japan as Ukraine's war hikes the price of chemical alternatives.

As in several parts of the world, the use of "night soil" to fertilise crops was once common in Japan.

However, the advent of sewage systems and treatment facilities, as well as chemical fertilisers, saw it fall out of fashion.

About a decade ago, Japanese treatment facilities wondered if they could revive interest to avoid sewage sludge disposal -- a costly and potentially environmentally damaging process.

But enthusiasm was limited until Russia's invasion of Ukraine sent the cost of chemical fertilisers soaring.

That has been a bonanza for a facility in northern Japan's Tome, where sales of shimogoe were up 160 percent year-on-year by March 2023.

For the first time since the city began producing the fertiliser in 2010, it has sold out.

The demand is easy to explain, said facility vice president Toshiaki Kato.

"Our fertiliser is popular because it is cheap, and it is helping farmers cut soaring costs," he told AFP.

"It is also good for the environment."

Made of a combination of treated sewage sludge from septic tanks and human waste from cesspits, the fertiliser goes for 160 yen ($1.10) per 15 kilos.

That's about a tenth of the price of products made from imported raw materials.

In southwestern Japan's Saga too, officials report sales are up two to three times.

And dozens of tour groups from municipalities elsewhere in the country have visited, eager to replicate their programme.

 

- Historic origins -

 

Shimogoe was a key fertiliser in Japan's pre-modern Edo era, said Arata Kobayashi, a fertiliser specialist who has written journal articles on the subject.

In the early 18th century, the one million residents of Tokyo -- then called Edo -- "produced" an estimated 500,000 tonnes of fertiliser a year.

It was big business, involving gatherers, transporters and farmers, "and all of them benefited from the recycling system," Kobayashi said.

They "didn't create a recycling system on purpose... it was the result of everyone pursuing profit."

Japan's government has encouraged the revival, citing environmental benefits, and concerns about food security since Russia's invasion.

The ministry of agriculture, forestry, and fisheries hopes to double animal manure and human waste use by 2030, with a goal of them accounting for 40 percent of all fertiliser use in Japan.

In Miura outside Tokyo, vacuum trucks carrying human waste arrive one after another at a treatment facility.

Water is removed and then bacteria ferment the remaining solids in huge tanks.

Methane produced during the process is burned to supply the facility's hot water and electricity, and the final product is a soil-like powder that can be spread on fields.

"We produce 500 tonnes of fertiliser annually," said Kenichi Ryose, facility manager at Miura Biomass Centre.

"This fertiliser is particularly good for leaf vegetables, like cabbage," he added.

Ryose said "harmful materials like heavy metals are removed from processed sewage sludge before arriving" at the plant.

In the United States, there have been recent concerns about the levels of so-called forever chemicals (PFAS) in fertiliser made from sewage.

An environment ministry official said similar concerns had not been reported in Japan, but noted there are no current guidelines for PFAS levels in soil.

"We're in the process of developing a scientifically reliable way to measure PFAS and studying how to regulate it," he said, speaking on condition of anonymity.

 

- 'Dirty mud' -

 

The sun is shining as the trucks arrive, and despite the facility's odour-absorbing machines, a distinct aroma fills the air.

The smell has proved something of a problem, admitted Nobuyoshi Fujiwara, 41, who runs a lettuce farm in Yokosuka, north of Miura.

He started using shimogoe last year, "because I wanted to cut costs, and for the social good" of recycling waste.

But "we can't use it in fields near houses, because there are complaints about the smell".

"Also, you have to spread four or five times the volume that you use with regular chemical fertilisers," he explained.

That's the case for any type of manure, but can be a turn-off for some farmers because it is more work.

He concedes that the fertiliser faces something of a branding issue.

"The Chinese characters that are used for sludge -- 'dirty mud' -- are not great," he said.

"Even though we produce safe food, I imagine that for those who don't know much about it, the impressions people have of fertiliser made from human faeces might not be good."

He doesn't want to hide his use of the fertiliser though. In fact, he would like to see it publicised.

"An official certification system would be helpful to promote our produce," he said.

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© Agence France-Presse

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