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Fresh off his highly publicized, controversial defamation suit, actor Johnny Depp sought to show his creative career was back on track, releasing an album with English rocker Jeff Beck.

The 13-track album "18" on which Depp sings and plays guitar features mainly covers, and so far it has been critically panned.

It's a record unlikely to figure prominently in the repertoire of Beck, the 78-year-old former member of The Yardbirds.

The album includes renditions of Marvin Gaye's "What's Going On" and John Lennon's "Isolation," as well as the Velvet Underground classic "Venus In Furs."

The choice to include a song focused on sado-masochism might seem bizarre to some, given the ultra-mediatized trial centered on alleged domestic abuse between Depp and his ex-wife Amber Heard, the actor best known for her role in "Aquaman."

The album also includes two songs the 59-year-old "Pirates of the Caribbean" star penned himself: "This is a Song for Miss Hedy Lamarr," and "Sad Motherfuckin' Parade."

"Erased by the same world that made her a star / Spun out of beauty, trapped by its web," Depp sings of Lamarr, who secluded herself in the final years of her life.

 

- Bad Boys, Hollywood Vampires -

 

Depp and Beck met in 2016, bonding "over cars and guitars" before the latter said he began to appreciate "Depp's serious songwriting skills and ear for music."

They began working on this LP in 2019.

It's far from Depp's first foray into music: the actor for more than a decade has recorded and toured with the Hollywood Vampires, a supergroup he started with Alice Cooper and Joe Perry.

Beck is currently on tour in Europe with Depp as a special guest.

This spring Depp won $15 million in the defamation suit against Heard, who was awarded $2 million.

The jury found that Heard, 36, defamed Depp in describing herself as a "public figure representing domestic abuse" in a 2018 op-ed published in The Washington Post, although she did not identify the actor by name. Depp held he suffered reputational damage following its publication.

Heard received $2 million in damages because the jury found that one of Depp's lawyers had defamed her.

The six-week trial gained widespread attention not least because it was televised and livestreamed, with clips making their way to social media as Heard became a target of online vitriol and mockery.

In its aftermath Depp is embarking on a return to acting, set to star in the forthcoming French movie "La Favorite."

He will play King Louis XV, with filming locations including Versailles.

bur-mdo/dw

 

 

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Last weekend highlighted the difference in their respective worlds.

At about the same time on Saturday, Jessica, 31, competed in the Grand Prix at the Longines Paris Eiffel Jumping event, to the stunning backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, while 'The Boss' was making a surprise appearance at the Glastonbury Festival supporting fellow legend Paul McCartney.

She had a busy weekend competing in at least six competitions on her two horses RMF Zecilie and Hungry Heart, the latter a name that will resonate with her father's fans.

Springsteen, though, has been very much the author of her successful career in showjumping -- a rare sport where men and women compete on an equal basis -- reaching the zenith thusfar with the silver in the team competition at the Olympics last year in Tokyo.

That came at the third time of asking as in 2012 in London she was an alternate rider for the team and then missed out on the 2016 Games.

However, having battled her way to the top she knows that it is a sport which has many pitfalls.

"The sport is always challenging, there are always ups and downs and you really have to stick with it," she told AFP.

"There have been many moments where I felt like my aspirations of making a championship team were so far away and that I would never get there.

"It's so important to trust the process and stay determined and be patient.

"It is definitely not easy, but there's no better feeling than when it all comes together."

She certainly had a rude introduction to riding aged six as her first pony tried to gain the upper hand.

"Yes, my first pony Shamrock would always spin and buck and was quite cheeky," she said.

"I think I learned a lot from every horse I have ridden. My first pony definitely taught me resilience!"

'Strong mindset'

Springsteen admits it took a while for her to gain the confidence required for the stiff challenge of guiding a powerful horse round an arena packed with obstacles to jump.

"I was quite nervous when I was younger, and it took me a lot of time to become comfortable even jumping," she said.

"Since I started so young, I really took my time at every level and waited to start jumping bigger fences until I felt really confident, which I think was important for me.

"Every time I moved up to new divisions, I was really excited and eager."

At 31 Springsteen would be in many sports entering the final stages of her career but as Nick Skelton showed when winning Olympic individual gold aged 58 showjumping is ageless.

Springsteen, though, says a big reason for the longevity of so many riders in the sport is down to their love of horses and adapting to their different demands.


"It's all about the relationship you have with your horse -- every horse has a different style and certain type of ride they prefer," she said.

"It's not about how physically strong you are, it’s about being sensitive to your horse and figuring out what makes them jump their best.

"Being able to work with them every day is truly a dream for me.

"And I feel really grateful that I compete in a sport that you can do for many many years, that's really rare."

This battle between horse and rider in establishing relationships has been helped in Springsteen's case by her having studied psychology.

"I've continued to read sports psychology books as well which I find really helpful," she said.

"I think having a strong mindset is so important.

"If I wasn’t riding, yes perhaps I would have continued studying psychology and doing something in that field!"

 
 

 

London (AFP) – Serena Williams will return to the scene of some of her greatest triumphs and also some bitter disappointments when she steps out on Wimbledon's Centre Court.

The 40-year-old has not played singles tennis since she suffered an injury during her first-round match at the All England Club 12 months ago.

The American has slumped to 1,204th in the world rankings but remains Wimbledon royalty, with seven singles titles under her belt.

AFP Sport looks at five of her most memorable moments at the All England Club.

First Grand Slam title

For all her success on the singles court, Williams won her first Grand Slam title alongside Max Mirnyi in the mixed doubles at Wimbledon in 1998.

Williams and the Belarusian player beat Mahesh Bhupathi and Mirjana Lucic in straight sets in the final, going on to win the US Open later that year.

It was the first of 39 Grand Slam titles to date for the American in singles, doubles and mixed doubles.

Sister act

Serena Williams has won 14 women's Grand Slam doubles titles with her older sister Venus, but they have faced each other across the net in nine major finals.

Serena's first Wimbledon singles title came in 2002 when she beat Venus 7-6 (7/4), 6-3, in a much-anticipated clash.

Serena did not drop a set during the entire tournament and became world number one for the first time following her victory.

She beat Venus again in the final the following year but her older sister got her revenge in 2008, triumphing 7-5, 6-4 in the title match.

The following year Serena again came out on top in their sisterly rivalry, winning 7-6 (7/3), 6-2.

Two-year drought

Serena Williams suffered a foot injury after winning her fourth Wimbledon singles title in 2010 and it was to be two years before she added to her collection of major titles.

But she beat Poland's Agnieszka Radwanska 6–1, 5–7, 6–2 in the Wimbledon final in 2012.

That triumph led to a new period of dominance for the American, who won three of the following five Grand Slams.

Steffi Graf record

Williams won her seventh and most recent Wimbledon singles title in 2016, beating Angelique Kerber in the final.

It was payback for her defeat to the German in the Australian Open final earlier that year and took her level with Steffi Graf's record of 22 Grand Slam titles in the Open era.

Williams overtook Graf by winning the 2017 Australian Open but remains one behind all-time leader Margaret Court, who won 24 Grand Slam singles titles.

Wimbledon pain

Williams, who missed Wimbledon in 2017 when pregnant, was a defeated finalist at the All England Club in 2018 and 2019 while the coronavirus pandemic forced the cancellation of the 2020 tournament.

Last year ended in bitter disappointment as she had to retire in the first set of her match against Aliaksandra Sasnovich due to a leg injury.

Wimbledon is widely considered Williams's chance of equalling Court's all-time record as she chases the elusive number 24.

 
 

Wales captain Gareth Bale says his jump to Major League Soccer gives him the best chance to play in the 2024 European Championship and maybe even the 2026 World Cup.

The long-time Real Madrid and Tottenham star winger was introduced  after his first workout as a member of Los Angeles FC, where he is signed through 2023 but hoping for a much longer stay.

"I have many years to come. I haven't come here just to be here for six months, 12 months," Bale said. "I've come here to try and be here as long as possible."

Five-time UEFA Champions League winner Bale made it clear his MLS journey is not planned as a stopover on the way to retirement.

"I want to do as well as I can and I want to try and make my mark on this league, on this team," Bale said. "I'm looking forward to the future. It's not just a short thing."

Bale, who turns 33 on Saturday, sees MLS as his best path to playing for Wales beyond this year's Qatar World Cup, the nation's first in 64 years.

His goal is playing in Euro 2024 and he has an eye on the 2026 World Cup that will be co-hosted by the United States with Mexico and Canada.

"It also gives me the best opportunity to keep going into the next Euros, maybe further, so my plan is to really work hard," Bale said. "We've got a great plan going forward to get me up to speed and hopefully last as long as possible.

"Being here gives me the best possible chance to get to the Euros -- and maybe even one more. That's my goal. I feel like I'm here to play a big part."

Bale praised MLS, saying the league is better than Europeans believe.

"The standard here is really increasing. It's a lot better than the people in Europe really think," Bale said. "It's a league that's really on the rise."

Bale will face such challenges as time zones and a season that starts in February and runs to October plus playoffs.

"The transition is not, I guess, an easy one but I'm looking forward to the challenge," Bale said. "Being in the middle of a season is a bit different but I feel like I've been keeping myself fit in Europe's off-season and hopefully I can hit the ground running."

 

- 'Nice to get started' -

 

Bale, who won 19 trophies in nine seasons with Real Madrid, hopes to haul in some hardware for LAFC after his first workouts with new teammates.

"My first training session today was amazing, the first step in hopefully a long journey," Bale said.

"I had been eager to get going. I need to get some training under my belt to be ready. The players were really welcoming and hopefully I can help them all."

Following in the footsteps of such stars as David Beckham and Pele, Bale wants to boost football with US sports fans.

"I want to try and help grow football in the US as well," Bale said. "For players who have experienced a lot in their career, I think we have a responsibility to grow the game all around the world as well."

He was also excited about Tuesday's expected announcement that former England and Manchester United star Wayne Rooney will become the coach at DC United.

"It's great for MLS and the sport in the US to get big names and people watching across the world is going to do great things for MLS," Bale said. "Great to be a part of it."

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Courted and then jilted by the world's richest person, Twitter looks well positioned to win a court battle with Elon Musk over a $1 billion breakup fee and more -- but the company will not emerge unscathed.

The entire saga has left observers baffled by what Wedbush analyst Dan Ives described as "one of the craziest business stories ever."

"I think it starts off as a circus show and it's ending as a circus show," Ives told AFP.

Musk, the founder of electric car company Tesla, sent a letter to Twitter on Friday saying he was pulling out of the controversial deal he made in April to buy the platform for $54.20 per share, or $44 billion in total.

But such merger agreements are "designed to prevent buyers from getting cold feet and deciding they want to walk away," explains Ann Lipton, a professor of law at Tulane University who specializes in corporate litigation.

Musk, who also heads SpaceX, has accused the social media giant of "false and misleading representations" about the number of fake accounts on its platform.

His lawyers also point to recent Twitter employee layoffs and hiring freezes, which they say are contrary to the company's obligation to continue operating normally.

Those arguments may be valid, but they do not merit pulling out of the deal, says Lipton, dismissing them as "nitpicky."

"It's not enough, unless he can show that the representations (about fake accounts) are not just false, but also that they dramatically call the fundamentals of the deal into question," she explains.

"Looks very much like Musk is legally wrong."

 

- 'Twitter would die off' -

 

That leaves the possibility that the multi-billionaire is actually trying to renegotiate the price down.

This tactic has been used successfully elsewhere, such as by LVMH: two years ago, the global luxury giant broke off a deal to acquire Tiffany before getting a discount.

But experts don't see how Musk and Twitter could agree on a different price at this point, given that the platform's stock has lost more than a quarter of its value since late April.

"Both have a lot to lose," Lipton points out.

If Twitter wins in court, the mercurial entrepreneur will, at a minimum, have to pay a few billion dollars in damages.

At worst, he could be forced to honor his commitment and buy Twitter at a price that has become exorbitant, while his fortune has melted down by tens of billions of dollars in recent months.

But though this would be a victory for shareholders, it would still leave Twitter in Musk's hands -- and his libertarian vision of absolute free speech is not aligned with that of many of the employees, users and advertisers on whom the platform's business model depends.

"Twitter is worse off than six months ago, but in the long run, it's better off without him," says Creative Strategies analyst Carolina Milanesi.

"It feels like a toy that a spoiled kid wants, but doesn't really know what to do with, so he would get bored of it, and not give it the attention it deserves, and forget it in a corner ... Twitter would die off slowly and painfully," she predicts.

 

- 'Battle on all fronts' -

 

Any court proceedings are expected to last for months, especially since Musk "will drag it out," according to Lipton.

"Twitter is in a strong position," she says.

But Musk, followed by more than 100 million people on the platform, "will try to embarrass them -- it will be distracting and demoralizing for employees," she argues.

He has already harassed the platform with highly critical tweets, mockery and outlandish suggestions, encouraged by his many fans.

For Twitter, "it's going be a battle on all fronts -- keeping employees, competitors going after their business, brand issues, investors believing the numbers," says Ives, the Wedbush analyst.

Unlike its Silicon Valley neighbors, Twitter has never been a money-making machine, able to turn users' attention into astronomical advertising revenues.

"The past few months have been a huge distraction for Twitter, keeping it from focusing on its business fundamentals," notes Debra Williamson of eMarketer.

"If Musk is able to terminate the deal, Twitter will still be left with the same problems it had before he came on the scene," she says.

"Its user growth is slowing. And while ad revenue is still growing marginally, Twitter is now dealing with a slowing economy that could squeeze ad spending on all social platforms."

juj/st/sst

© Agence France-Presse

Washington (AFP) – Space enthusiasts are holding their breath.

 

The James Webb Space Telescope, the most powerful ever sent into orbit, is set Tuesday to unveil breathtaking new views of the Universe with a clarity that's never been seen before.

Distant galaxies, bright nebulae and a faraway giant gas planet are among the observatory's first targets, US space agency NASA said Friday.

But the images themselves have been jealously guarded to build suspense ahead of the big reveal.

"I'm looking very much forward to not having to keep these secrets anymore, that will be a great relief," Klaus Pontoppidan, an astronomer at the Space Telescope Science Institute (STSI) that oversees Webb, told AFP.

NASA chief Bill Nelson has promised the "deepest image of our Universe that has ever been taken."

Webb's infrared capabilities are what make it uniquely powerful -- allowing it to both pierce through cosmic dust clouds and detect light from the earliest stars, which has been stretched into infrared wavelengths as the Universe expanded.

This lets it peer further back in time than any previous telescope, to the period shortly after the Big Bang, 13.8 billion years ago.

"When I first saw the images... I suddenly learned three things about the Universe that I didn't know before," Dan Coe, an STSI astronomer and expert on the early Universe, told AFP. "It's totally blown my mind."

First targets

An international committee decided the first wave of images would include the Carina Nebula, an enormous cloud of dust and gas 7,600 light years away.


Carina Nebula is famous for its towering pillars that include "Mystic Mountain," a three-light-year-tall cosmic pinnacle captured in an iconic image by the Hubble Space Telescope, until now humanity's premier space observatory.

Webb has also carried out a spectroscopy -- an analysis of light that reveals detailed information -- on a faraway gas giant called WASP-96 b, which was discovered in 2014.

Nearly 1,150 light-years from Earth, WASP-96 b is about half the mass of Jupiter and zips around its star in just 3.4 days.

Nestor Espinoza, an STSI astronomer, told AFP that previous exoplanet spectroscopies carried out using existing instruments were very limited compared to what Webb could do.

"It's like being in a room that is very dark and you only have a little pinhole you can look through," he said of the prior technology. Now, with Webb, "You've opened a huge window, you can see all the little details."

Perhaps most enticing of all, Webb has gathered an image using foreground galaxy clusters called SMACS 0723 as a kind of cosmic magnifying glass for the extremely distant and faint objects behind it.

Million miles from Earth

Launched in December 2021 from French Guiana on an Ariane 5 rocket, Webb is orbiting the Sun at a distance of a million miles (1.6 million kilometers) from Earth, in a region of space called the second Lagrange point.


Here, it remains in a fixed position relative to the Earth and Sun, with minimal fuel required for course corrections.

A wonder of engineering, the total project cost is estimated at $10 billion, making it one of the most expensive scientific platforms ever built, comparable to the Large Hadron Collider at CERN.

Webb's primary mirror is over 21 feet (6.5 meters) wide and is made up of 18 gold-coated mirror segments. Like a camera held in one's hand, the structure must remain as stable as possible to achieve the best shots.

Charlie Atkinson, chief engineer on the James Webb Space Telescope program at lead contractor Northrop Grumman, told AFP that it wobbles no more than 17 millionths of a millimeter.

Atkinson, who has been working on the program since 1998, said: "We knew it was going to require some of the best talents across the world, but it was doable."

After the first images, astronomers around the globe will get shares of time on the telescope, with projects selected competitively through a process in which applicants and selectors don't know each others' identity, to minimize bias.

Thanks to an efficient launch, NASA estimates Webb has enough propellant for a 20-year life, as it works in concert with the Hubble and Spitzer space telescopes to answer fundamental questions about the cosmos.

 
 

 

The 36-year-old, who has a messy head of hair and bright eyes beaming from behind glasses, told AFP that he is a "very, very normal person" who loves sport, his family and quiet moments of reflection.

But for Duminil-Copin, who specialises in probability theory, those quiet moments can lead to discoveries that won him the Fields Medal, the equivalent of the Nobel Prize for mathematics.

He accepted the prize, which is awarded every four years to mathematicians under 40, at a ceremony in Finland's capital Helsinki.

The other winners were Britain's James Maynard of Oxford University, June Huh of Princeton in the United States and Ukraine's Maryna Viazovska, who is only the second ever woman laureate.

Duminil-Copin described with unabashed enthusiasm the happiness he finds in working with others in the search for answers -- whether or not they find one.

"It's the best, especially since it's a collective process, where all the beauty is in interacting with others," he said in an interview a few days before the prize was announced.

A visual mind

Born on August 26, 1985, Duminil-Copin has collected a raft of mathematics awards over the last decade.

At the age of 31, he was appointed professor at France's Institute of Advanced Scientific Studies in 2016.

"It's a place that seems made for me, for my creative part," he said of the green campus outside Paris.

It gives the mathematician that most precious resource for deep thinkers: time.

"This slowness in everyday life is very fruitful because I need time for ideas to come, for them to settle quietly, for them to take shape," he said.

At the campus, which is not far from where he grew up, Duminil-Copin uses his "very visual intuition" to take on the most complicated mathematical problems.

"There are very few formulas and many drawings" in his mind when he thinks about such problems, he said.

That "aesthetic vision" allows him to view mathematics with a "certain elegance", he added.

The Paris institute allows researchers to free themselves of all other obligations, including teaching.

But Duminil-Copin teaches anyway, retaining a professorship at the University of Geneva, saying that "in the end it is perhaps the most important aspect of this profession".

He may have inherited this passion from his father, a sports teacher, and mother, a dancer who became a teacher later in life.

When he was younger, Duminil-Copin envisioned becoming a teacher himself -- of maths, of course -- but his talent propelled him towards research.

Collaboration is at the heart of his outlook. If he provides mathematical tools to physicists, their work in turn may allow someone else in the future to find new applications for them.

"It's the whole community that really produces scientific progress," he said.

Mental balance

Duminil-Copin hailed the importance of two university professors to his career, Jean-Francois Le Gall, who also worked on probability theory, and fellow Fields Medal winner Wendelin Werner.

He said he fell in "love at first sight" with percolation theory during a class Werner taught on the subject, which falls under the branch of statistical physics.

It was in that class that Duminil-Copin first encountered Nienhuis's conjecture -- a "beautiful, elegant and completely mysterious" problem, he said.

"I solved it a few years later, almost without doing it on purpose."

As a child, Duminil-Copin preferred astronomy to mathematics.

He said he was "not pushed at all" by his parents to focus solely on his studies -- instead they were keen to "confront him with a variety of things" such as sport, music and friends.

The lesson seems to have stuck.

"When we talk about preparing to become a researcher we think of intelligence, academic training, but there is also a mental balance which is very important," he said.

New ideas can strike him "anytime, in the middle of the night or in the shower", he said.

But they will have to wait until he's back at work.

"My priority is on the personal side, to spend time with my daughter and my wife."

 
 

From laser beams and wooden satellites to galactic tow-truck services, start-ups in Japan are trying to imagine ways to deal with a growing environmental problem: space debris.

Junk like used satellites, parts of rockets and wreckage from collisions has been piling up since the space age began, with the problem accelerating in recent decades.

"We're entering an era when many satellites will be launched one after another. Space will become more and more crowded," said Miki Ito, general manager at Astroscale, a company dedicated to "space sustainability".

"There are simulations suggesting space won't be usable if we go on like this," she told AFP. "So we must improve the celestial environment before it's too late."

The European Space Agency (ESA) estimates that around one million pieces of debris larger than a centimetre -- big enough to "disable a spacecraft" -- are in Earth's orbit.

They are already causing problems, from a near-miss in January involving a Chinese satellite, to a five-millimetre hole knocked into a robotic arm on the International Space Station last year.

"It's hard to predict exactly how fast the amount of space debris will increase," said Toru Yamamoto, a senior researcher at the Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency (JAXA).

But "it's an issue that raises real concerns about the sustainable use of space."

With satellites now crucial for GPS, broadband and banking data, collisions pose significant risks on Earth.

Tadanori Fukushima has seen the scale of the problem in his job as an engineer with Tokyo-based satellite operator and broadcaster SKY Perfect JSAT.

"A stationary satellite would get roughly 100 'debris-approaching' alerts a year," he told AFP.

International "satellite disposal guidelines" include rules like moving used satellites to "graveyard orbit" -- but the increase in debris means more is needed, specialists say.

 

- 'No panacea' -

 

Fukushima launched an in-house start-up in 2018 and envisions using a laser beam to vaporise the surface of space debris, creating a pulse of energy that pushes the object into a new orbit.

The irradiating laser means there's no need to touch any debris, which is generally said to move about 7.5 kilometres per second -- much faster than a bullet.

For now, the project is experimental, but Fukushima hopes to test the idea in space by spring 2025, working with several research institutions.

Japanese firms, along with some in Europe and the United States, are leading the way on developing solutions, according to Fukushima.

Some projects are further along, including Astroscale's space "tow-truck", which uses a magnet to collect out-of-service satellites.

"If a car breaks down, you call a tow-truck service. If a satellite breaks down and stays there, it faces the risk of collision with debris and needs to be collected quickly," Ito explained.

The firm carried out a successful trial last year and imagines one day equipping customer satellites with a "docking plate" equivalent to a tow-truck's hook, allowing collection later on.

Astroscale, which has a contract with the ESA, plans a second test by the end of 2024 and hopes to launch its service soon after.

Other efforts approach the problem at the source, by creating satellites that don't produce debris.

Kyoto University and Sumitomo Forestry envisage a wooden satellite that goes into orbit in a rocket and burns up safely when it plunges to Earth.

That project is also in its infancy -- in March, pieces of wood were sent to the International Space Station to test how they respond to cosmic rays.

Space agencies have their own programmes, with JAXA focusing on large debris over three tonnes.

And internationally, firms including US-based Orbit Fab and Australia's Neumann Space have proposed ideas such as in-orbit refuelling to extend the life of satellites.

The problem is complex enough that a range of solutions will be needed, said JAXA's Yamamoto.

"There is no panacea."

kh/sah/kaf/axn/dhc

© Agence France-Presse

 

The week was set to conclude with the surprise return of Hedi Slimane, the former Dior and Saint Laurent designer, now with French brand Celine. Just two years ago he announced he was done with the official fashion calendar.

Slimane -- who became hugely influential as the stylist behind bands such as The Libertines and Daft Punk in the 2000s -- has not presented a live show in Paris since February 2020. He had dismissed them as "obsolete", preferring to present collections with videos shot in luxurious French locales.

He gave no explanation for his reappearance on the catwalks, but he returns when there is a sense of a renaissance in menswear.

'A boom'

The past few seasons have often seen men's and women's shows merging into one -- with London Fashion Week doing away with the distinction altogether.

But this week in Paris seemed to reaffirm the divide, with houses wanting to boost their focus on menswear at a time when demand is booming.

US designer Matthew Williams presented his first-ever standalone menswear show for Givenchy this week.

"It's good to give space to men and women, to each and everyone their platform to tell a story," Williams told fashion site WWD. "There's more room for more looks."


His show was grounded in real-life styles from his native California, he said, with a lot of utilitarian knee-length shorts, cargo trousers and relaxed knitwear -- much of it in monochrome with a few splashes of pastel colours.

"Commercially, menswear is a market that has developed a lot with a particularly strong dynamic in Asia that has created a boom for pret-a-porter men's designers," said Serge Carreira, fashion expert at Sciences Po University.

'More accessible'

Also marking her first menswear show was France's Marine Serre, one of the biggest names to emerge in recent years.

The 30-year-old has made sustainability and inclusivity central to her brand, and that was evident at her sports-themed show in a stadium outside Paris on Saturday.


Many pieces were upcycled from old scarves and linen -- that had been turned into everything from speedos to flags and leotards.

The models came in all shapes and sizes, from children to older people, alongside celebrities such as ex-footballer Djibril Cisse and Paralympic gold medallist Alexis Hanquinquant, as well as Madonna's daughter Lourdes Leon in one of the house's trademark moon-patterned bodysuits.

"Thirty percent of our sales have been for menswear in the last collections -- we're not at 50/50 but we do quite a bit of men's and we have no intention of doing less," Serre told AFP after the show.


"Upcycling is quite rare in men's but the locker-room lends itself very well to it," she added.

"These are shapes that are less complex: it's easier and we can have better prices that mean it is more accessible for everyone to wear upcycled pieces."

Meanwhile, familiar names also made a mark this week.

Dior took inspiration from the childhood Normandy home of the label's founder, with a flower-filled garden runway and some straw hats and chic outdoor loungewear among the outfits.

Hermes was also in a relaxed, pastel-infused mood, which designer Veronique Nichanian told AFP was inspired by "lightness, comfort, fun and colours that pop."

 
 

 

Paris (AFP) – With feats of contemporary dance and fiery orbs being flung from cranes, two of the showiest men's brands on Thursday brought some spectacle back to Paris Fashion Week after a subdued couple of years.

Japan's Issey Miyake, known for innovative and dazzling catwalk shows, returned to Paris on for the first time since the start of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Staged by Rachid Ouramdane, director of the Chaillot National Theatre, the show brought together models, performers and acrobats who not only strutted but danced, leapt and climbed the walls.

The outfits were suitably loose and easy to move in, with fresh and vibrant reds, yellows and greens that matched the mood of rebirth.

The brand had presented all its collections via online videos or installations around Paris over the past two years, and was among the last to return to live shows.

"Now that it's easier to travel the world, we think it's the perfect moment to return with a full catwalk show," a spokesperson told AFP.

Meanwhile, under a blazing sun in the courtyard of the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, US designer Rick Owens put on a typically arresting display.

It featured three giant spheres being set on fire, hoisted up by a crane and then dropped into the vast pool in the art centre's fountain.

He described it as a metaphor for a world "disturbed by war and constant online stone throwing" in the show notes

As for the clothes, there were the trademark exaggerated shoulders and grungey glamour, but with some lighter touches in the form of transparent and billowing fabrics.

Some of the pieces used new sustainable materials that have become popular with designers as they try to counter the industry's atrocious environmental record.


One used a leather made from the discarded scales of the giant pirarucu fish in the Brazilian Amazon.

"(It’s) a skin I use over and over," he said in the notes. "Fished as a food source by indigenous communities in the Amazon forest, the skins are then sold as a waste product generating income for them."

 
 

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