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Kano, Nigeria - 

She's Nigerian, but Lebanese by origin and a football star in a conservative country's even more conservative north.

Hidaa Ghaddar is unconventional -- but her approach might be just what's needed in a city buckling under the weight of drug abuse and unemployment.

Ghaddar's athletic academy aims to keep youth off drugs in football-crazy Kano, the cultural capital of Muslim-majority northern Nigeria.

"Drug abuse and playing football don't go together. It's either you do this or that," she told AFP of her Breakthrough Football Academy, established two years ago, which also aims to develop future talent for foreign clubs.

The 27-year-old has become something of a local celebrity as the country's only woman coach of an all-male team, defying cultural norms in Kano.

She's more than qualified for the sporting aspect of her job, but her approach also aims to help Nigerian anti-drug authorities, who are facing a toxic mix of substance abuse, criminality and political violence.

Kano, the largest city in northern Nigeria, has the second highest drug use rate in the country, according to the National Drug Law Enforcement Agency.

High unemployment has pushed youths in the city of five million into drugs and crime, and politicians are known to take advantage of the crisis by hiring them as thugs to intimidate opponents, political researchers have documented.

Officially, the state's unemployment rate is 7.6 percent, above the national average of 5.3 percent. But the number of Kano state youths not in education, employment or training shoots up to 12.5 percent.

Another 15.8 percent of residents report being under-employed.

Police have started asking residents to report drug peddlers in their communities as part of efforts to contain the problem, alongside a new task force.

Nigeria severely lacks treatment and rehabilitation centres and drugs smuggled en route to Europe are increasingly spilling into the local market.

"Playing football itself helps these players avoid all of this," Ghaddar said.

Training sessions are accompanied by a focus on "nutrition, sleep, hydration and having a good lifestyle," Ghaddar said, from the sidelines of a sandy pitch in the centre of a horse racing track.

Several dozen spectators stood are watching the team train in the hot afternoon sun, as Ghaddar sported a black hijab and blue football boots.

 

- Love of football -

 

Born to a Lebanese family of factory owners in Kano -- the city is home to a sizeable Lebanesecommunity, mostly engaged in construction, trade and confectionery -- Ghaddar started playing football at the age of five.

She was gripped by a love of football at 16 when she moved to Lebanon for her university studies.

Ghaddar's dreams of becoming a star on the pitch were cut short by four successive knee injuries and five surgeries, which forced her to abandon her playing career at the age of 18.

But she returned to Nigeria to give young players the footballing opportunity she missed.

"I lived for 16 years here in Kano and it felt like home," Ghaddar said.

Initially, she had doubts her plan for an academy would work, considering there were no women footballers of note in the city, where cultural norms steer most women away from sport.

But she opened the academy with six students and soon it increased to 63.

"I was scared of everything... me being a female wearing a hijab, coming to the race course, training here on sand in front of men," Ghaddar said with a smile.

She provides the players with soccer kits and allowances in an effort to help them concentrate on football.

The players are also enrolled in secondary schools and twice-a-week English classes to help their academic growth.

Those not interested in university are employed in her family-owned confectionary and soda factories while they also focus on football.

"The boys are family to me, I feel all the positive emotions when I'm with them," Ghaddar said.

Ali Mustapha Ahmad Musa is one of Ghaddar's students who aspires to become an international football player.

"We pray and train to achieve our highest dream of joining foreign clubs in Europe or elsewhere," the 15-year old said after a training session.

That's also Ghaddar's hope.

"My dream is to see one of my players playing abroad," Ghaddar said.

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© Agence France-Presse

Hopes of making downtown Seoul dazzle more than Times Square have hit a setback with new guidelines to dim the digital billboards that light up the South Korean capital after a barrage of complaints.

The number of these sometimes huge electronic screens -- often curved and showing waving K-pop stars or leaping dolphins in 3D -- has soared, driving buzz on social media.

But not all locals are happy, particularly nighttime motorists bothered by the glare, with thousands of complaints in recent years prompting new recommendations from Wednesday to tone down the imposing installations.

The surge in digital billboards follows the designation of several areas as free advertising zones and a project to transform Seoul's central Gwanghwamun Square by 2033 into a "media gallery" to surpass Times Square in New York.

One billboard in Gwanghwamun Square is the size of four basketball courts and its 6K ultra-high resolution display is split across two sides of the building, creating a wrap-around effect.

The symbolic heart of the city has four large digital screens, bustling shopping area Myeong-dong has three and glitzy Gangnam -- synonymous with South Korea's economic and cultural strength -- boasts 17.

The colours "are so vivid that it feels like they are spreading out like waves," passerby Kim Hee-soo, 23, an art student, told AFP on Wednesday evening.

"I didn't realise it before, but the glass facades of the buildings also feel vibrant."

"Gwanghwamun Square will be reborn as a new media gallery that people around the world can enjoy," district mayor Chung Moon-heon said last year as he announced the project -- which boasts the slogan "Beyond your imagination, beyond Times Square".

 

- Repetitive flashes -

 

But the new guidelines recommend a maximum of 7,000 candelas -- a measure of luminous intensity -- during the day, half the level detected on some screens, reducing to 350-500 candelas at night.

The city also advises minimising high-brightness white backgrounds, using gradual instead of abrupt transitions in brightness, and avoiding repetitive flashing and intense strobe effects.

While the guidelines were drawn up before the Iran war -- which has prompted the government to seek to reduce energy use -- authorities hope they will also cut the installations' electricity consumption by 15 percent.

The recommendations are "a reasonable improvement that adjusts brightness beyond what is necessary to consider the readability of advertisements and reduce visual fatigue for citizens, while also enhancing energy efficiency," said Choi In-gyu, a local official.

Oh Se-min, 68, a retiree from a construction company, told AFP that he was not personally bothered by the billboards, but that safety comes first.

"If drivers say they experience (glare), then it should definitely be addressed to prevent accidents," he said.

But Lee Youn-kyu, 55, who works in the shipping industry, wasn't convinced, saying that Seoul's billboards were less extreme than other global cities.

"We also can't ignore the overall convenience for pedestrians and the aesthetic value these lights add," Lee told AFP.

"I think it's important to find a good balance between all of these factors."

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© Agence France-Presse

In a handwritten note on a sketch of an evening dress for her official visit to India and Pakistan in 1961, Queen Elizabeth II specified it should be sewn in "yellow satin", a colour symbolising health and prosperity in the region.

The sketch is one of about 300 items on display, some for the first time, at the exhibition "Queen Elizabeth II: Her Life in Style", which opens Friday at Buckingham Palace.

This unprecedented survey of the late UK monarch's wardrobe throughout her life (1926-2022) reveals the important diplomatic role she attached to her outfits.

The display in the King's Gallery at the London palace features sheath dresses sparkling with sequins and swirling outfits in vibrant colours from the 1960s.

There are also spectacular draped evening dresses straight from the atelier of Cristobal Balenciaga, maternity outfits and the military uniforms the princess wore during World War II.

In a section called "the finishing touch", the queen's signature colourful hats are pinned up on a wall opposite the coordinating outfits.

Tickets for the spectacular exhibition, which runs to October, have already sold out for April.

Highlights include Elizabeth's wedding dress dating from 1947 and the ornate embroidered gown she wore for her coronation, both created by British designer Norman Hartnell.

 

- Political aims -

 

"We wanted to pay tribute not only to her style but also to British fashion and designers," stressed Caroline de Guitaut, the curator, who chose the outfits on display from an archive of some 4,000 items.

A key attribute of the royal's wardrobe was its political aims, the exhibition reveals, with fashion choices also playing a diplomatic role.

The coronation gown illustrates this, perfectly decorated with the national emblems of the nations of the United Kingdom: the English rose, the Welsh leek and the Scottish thistle, as well as flowers symbolising the Commonwealth countries.

This diplomatic dimension was a recurring theme of Elizabeth's wardrobe through her record-breaking 70-year reign.

In 1954, while travelling in Australia, she wore a yellow stole delicately embroidered with the golden wattle, the national floral emblem.

And in 1961, on a visit to Pakistan, she dined with President Mohammad Ayub Khan wearing a satin dress in the colours of the national flag of the country, a former British colony.

"She was the undisputed queen of sartorial diplomacy," said de Guitaut.

The monarch's aim was always the same: "to show respect for the country she was visiting", the curator said, since her visits were made on government advice largely to countries with whom Britain hoped to build stronger ties.

 

- 'Eye for everything' -

 

This broke with the ancient tradition of royal clothing as a way to display wealth and power, historian Lisa Hackett told AFP.

Now confined to ceremonial roles, monarchs "no longer use their clothing to display their power" but instead want to convey respect and courtesy, said the academic from the University of New England in Australia.

These were dress codes that Elizabeth mastered to perfection.

"She was educated from an early age about her role and her wardrobe," Hackett said.

Elizabeth was also very involved in the design of her outfits.

"She decided what she wanted to wear, chose her designers, and even selected her suppliers," said de Guitaut.

Her handwritten note on the dress sketch for the trip to India and Pakistan was not exceptional: the exhibition shows that she added comments on several occasions.

"She had an eye for everything. I think it's fair to say she had almost complete mastery of her style," said the curator.

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Former fighter pilot Rumen Radev has vowed to lead Bulgaria out of a drawn-out political crisis if he wins a snap election next Sunday.

Many voters see Radev -- who was Bulgaria's president until earlier this year -- as a providential man who can give the Balkan nation plagued by corruption a fresh start after seven general elections in five years.

The 62-year-old presents himself as a defender of the poor of the EU's poorest country as he walks a tightrope on European issues.

He has hailed the benefits Bulgaria has reaped from EU membership while calling for dialogue with Russia as its invasion of Ukraine remains deadlocked after more than four years of fighting.

"Bulgaria is in a unique position, because we are the only EU member state that is both Slavic and Eastern Orthodox. That should be used," he said recently.

 

- Role with Russia -

 

"And we really can be a very important link in this whole process, which I am sure will sooner or later begin, to restore relations with Russia," Radev added.

Last year he called for a referendum on Bulgaria entering the eurozone, saying it was not ready to join.

But he failed and Bulgaria adopted the single European currency on January 1.

Radev has also slammed military aid to Ukraine and the EU trying to turn its back on Russian oil and gas.

"Geographically, economically, in terms of resources and as a market, we need to rebuild those relations," he insisted.

 

- Raised fist -

 

For sociologist Parvan Simeonov, Radev is hard to figure out like many leaders in the region who, "depending on the visiting delegation, choose whether or not to fly the Ukrainian flag in the background."

Radev insists he embodies distrust of the country's elites and oligarchs, denying any links to them.

A graduate of the elite US Air War College, he later served as the head of the Bulgarian Air Force.

But he moved into politics in 2016 and later won a presidential election to the mostly ceremonial post.

Born on June 18, 1963 in the southeastern Soviet-era new town of Dimitrovgrad, the austere and reserved man does not have the polish of seasoned communicators.

When he vows to regulate public tenders through artificial intelligence or to reform the much‑criticised judicial system, he sometimes gives the impression of reciting a memorised text.

But he won over many liberal pro-European voters when he openly supported protesters at 2020 rallies against corruption.

Radev walked out of the presidential palace with his fist raised to join the protests that ultimately toppled conservative prime minister Boyko Borisov a year later.

Radev was re‑elected head of state in 2021 with two-thirds of the vote.

 

- Modest lifestyle -

 

Late last year he once again backed anti-corruption protesters and when the last government resigned in December, he stepped down as president to plunge into the election campaign, betting on his popularity.

Simeonov said Radev's status as "the most popular leader" in the polls would put him in a decent position to negotiate a coalition after the election, leaving out discredited parties.

Radev's centre-left movement, Progressive Bulgaria, brings together a plethora of figures including military officers, former socialist officials and athletes, and the union leader of the country's main arms manufacturer, which has boomed supplying Ukraine's army.

Radev is campaigning on combatting social inequalities and promoting budgetary discipline without calling for radical change, said Simeonov.

His promises of a return to stability appeals to voters tired of facing the eighth parliamentary election in five years.

Married with two children and intensely patriotic, Radev also woos voters with a modest lifestyle and his defence of family values.

A recent campaign video shot in a village shop went viral showing Radev soothing the grocer upset with rising prices and Bulgaria's eurozone entry.

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© Agence France-Presse

In a community centre in eastern China, Shu Fangqiang shrugged off his jacket and stepped onto a scale, one of hundreds of locals signing up for an unusual weight loss programme -- "Trade Fat for Beef".

The rules are straightforward: for every half kilogram he loses, Shu will receive the same weight in boneless beef, or 1.5 kilograms (3.3 pounds) of beef on the bone.

The programme is one of many springing up across China, backed by local authorities anxious to tackle rising obesity rates, which are fast becoming a pressing public health issue.

Participants who are already keen to lose weight say the initiative is an added bonus.

"Even without the beef, I wanted to lose weight for my health," said Shu, whose body mass index (BMI) of 30 is classified as obese.

More than a third of Chinese adults were overweight in 2022, and around 8.3 percent were obese, according to the World Health Organization (WHO), compared with the United States, where 72.4 percent of adults are overweight and 42 percent are obese.

However, the number of obese people in China has tripled between 2004 and 2018, according to the Chinese Center for Disease Control and Prevention.

If current trends continue, the share of overweight and obese Chinese adults could reach 70.5 percent by 2030, the National Health Commission (NHC) says, whose obesity criteria is stricter than the WHO's.

"This opportunity just came at the right time, so I signed up," Shu said.

Participants of the campaign in the city of Wuxi were weighed once in March, and will return in January 2027 for a second and final weigh-in .

They will then be rewarded with expensive cuts like oxtail if they lose more weight -- though the total amount of free meat available is capped at 10 kilograms (22 pounds).

Organisers say more than 1,000 people have registered since the Wuxi campaign started in March -- with thousands more turned away for not meeting local community residence requirements.

Queues for weigh-ins reached up to a dozen people at a time in both the men and women's sections, an AFP journalist saw.

At the front of the queues, participants stepped on weighing scales which displayed their height, weight and BMI.

Staff members then measured their waists, logged their data on a form and used an encouraging stamp to mark it and to cheer participants on.

An on-site doctor offered personalised medical advice.

 

- 'Flab for potatoes' -

 

Similar grassroots initiatives have also surfaced in other localities across the country, with many shared widely on social media.

In the southwestern province of Yunnan, slimmers can take part in the "Flab for Potatoes" programme and if they shrink their waistlines considerably, can upgrade to chicken.

Countrywide, popular supermarket chain Yonghui has invited customers to register their losses over 10 days by weighing themselves in-store.

They can then trade every 1.5 kilograms lost for half a kilogram of beef, crayfish or kiwi.

When AFP visited the Wuxi community centre, banners at the weigh-in urged participants to slim down steadily rather than quickly, and to aim for health over thinness.

Organisers also posted warnings against weight-loss drugs, self-induced vomiting and extreme fasting, with doctors on hand to offer guidance.

Participant Shu told AFP he wanted to lose 20 kilograms.

"Being obese affects your mental state, your work performance and your overall well-being," he said.

"Sometimes when I'm heavier, I don't sleep well at night."

As of 2021, there were 402 million overweight or obese adults over 25 in China -- the world's largest population, according to a study published in The Lancet medical journal.

Another study, published in The Lancet in 2021, attributed the problem to rapid urbanisation and a shift toward processed, high-sugar and high-fat foods, as well as increasingly sedentary lifestyles.

 

- 'Hard to resist' -

 

In Wuxi, 44-year-old Zheng Haihua said she was signing up to encourage her to "move more and eat less", and to commit to exercising.

"The biggest challenge for me is... controlling my appetite, because when you see delicious food, it's hard to resist," Zheng laughed.

Local physician Wu Changyan sympathised, adding "there's life pressure, and the convenience of modern life makes it easy to eat more and eat too much."

The NHC and other authorities have launched national initiatives in an effort to counter the trend, concerned about links with chronic disease and increased healthcare costs.

Local efforts like the Wuxi one are "a fun way to get people motivated", Wu told AFP.

But Li Sheyu, a clinical professor at Sichuan University's West China Hospital, said the campaigns might have limited impact.

"I would not consider it a gamechanger in the big picture," he said, noting they were essentially just a traditional incentive method for weight loss.

"But (they are) a good example of disseminating weight-loss ideas to the public."

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Tokyo, Japan-Gripping paintbrush and crayon, the artist known as Thumbelina splodges and splats with merry abandon, the one-year-old star of a Tokyo exhibition that goes on way past her bedtime.

Abstract paintings by the toddler are on sale for 33,000 yen ($230) at her debut show at the hip gallery Decameron, tucked above a bar in the Kabukicho red-light district.

Thumbelina's vivid style is "babyish but mysteriously dexterous", gallery director -- and matchmaker of her parents -- Dan Isomura told AFP.

"I thought, 'wow, these are legit artworks'," Isomura said, describing his first impression of her free-form creations .

Colourful smudges adorn tatami mats and tables at the 21-month-old's suburban home, where her mother patiently helps twist open paint tubes and squeeze them onto paper.

"I can see this rhythm in her movements and patterns... she knows what she's doing," said the evacuee from Ukraine in her 20s, asking to remain anonymous for privacy reasons.

As a fellow artist focusing on Japanese calligraphy, she is "jealous" of her daughter's first solo exhibition, she joked, though of course "I'm happy, as a mum".

Once she thought her daughter might help her with work, but now "I'm her assistant".

 

- 'Like Cupid' -

 

After Russia invaded in 2022, Thumbelina's mother left Ukraine's eastern Donbas region -- her "very pathological, violent" homeland torn apart by war.

She found herself on a plane to Japan, having consulted a website helping Ukrainians find housing worldwide.

A chance seating beside contemporary artist Isomura, who had only boarded because of two delayed flights, changed her life.

Amazed to learn they were both artists, the pair kept in touch, and later, through Isomura's introduction, she met her future husband.

"Dan is our angel, you know, like Cupid," she said.

The couple then had Thumbelina -- not her real name -- whose paintings inspired 32-year-old Isomura.

At first he had assumed the toddler was "scribbling randomly, like she was playing in the mud".

But when he saw Thumbelina in action, "she seemed to signal each time she considered her drawing complete," prompting her mother to give her a fresh sheet.

The fact that Thumbelina sometimes demands a specific colour, develops shapes from paint droplets and finishes voluntarily suggests a will at work, he said.

"Some may say her mother's involvement means these are not Thumbelina's works," Isomura said.

But "for a baby, a mother is part of their body".

 

- Young creative mindset -

 

In any case, adult artists are not fully independent, Isomura argues, as they rarely break free of store-bought paints or conventional canvases.

"We operate under the illusion of solitary creation, while in fact we rely heavily on systems built by others," he said.

The exhibition, Isomura's first as director of Decameron, opened last month and runs until mid-May.

But most of the time it's on, from 8:00 pm until 5:00 am, Thumbelina will likely be fast asleep.

One recent night at the gallery, an admiring visitor said the paintings had an innocent charm.

"We instinctively try to draw skillfully" because "we've grown used to having our paintings evaluated by others", 45-year-old Yuri Kuroda told AFP.

"But it feels like she doesn't care at all about whether it's good or bad... It's a mindset we can never return to."

So would she pay $230 to take one home?

"I'm tempted," Kuroda chuckled.

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© Agence France-Presse



 


Los Angeles, United States-A commentator yells excitedly as hundreds of spectators stand glued to a video of a racecourse -- but the athletes they are rooting for are actually tiny sperm cells.

The unusual sport was invented by 17-year-old high schooler Eric Zhu, who raised over a million dollars to organize the event to call attention to male infertility.

Zhu said he was inspired by social media posts that claim average sperm counts had halved over the past 50 years.

Fearing that "there could be this dystopian future where no one will be able to make babies," Zhu said he wanted to use the competition to highlight the importance of reproductive health.

Scientists have not reached a consensus on whether humanity has experienced a dramatic drop in sperm count, with studies showing conflicting results.

At the Los Angeles event on Friday night, a man in a lab coat used pipettes to place samples of semen -- collected from contestants ahead of time -- onto tiny two-millimeter-long "tracks."

The race track was magnified 100 times by a microscope, then filmed by a camera that transferred the image to a 3D animation software before the final video was broadcast to the audience.

"There's no way to really tell if this is real, but I want to believe it is," Felix Escobar, a 20-year-old spectator, told AFP.

At the end of the brief race, the loser, 19-year-old University of California student Asher Proeger, was sprayed with a liquid resembling semen.

 

- 'Not Elon Musk' -

 

Zhu's fears about fertility echo the talking points of many in the burgeoning pro-natalist movement, which include conservative and far-right political figures.

But Zhu distanced himself from the movement.

"I have nothing to do with this, I'm not like an Elon Musk, who wants to repopulate the Earth," the young entrepreneur told AFP.

Musk, a close ally of US President Donald Trump, has been vocal about his belief that population decline threatens the West and has fathered over a dozen children with multiple women.

Zhu insisted he simply wanted to raise awareness of how sperm quality goes hand in hand with overall health.

"It's your choice to sleep earlier. It's your choice to stop doing drugs. It's your choice to eat healthier, and all these different things have a significant kind of impact on your motility," Zhu said.

Shanna Swan, a reproductive epidemiologist at Mount Sinai's Icahn School of Medicine, co-authored a study that found the sperm count decline cited by Zhu.

She said the proliferation of "hormonally active chemicals" in recent years has had a negative impact on human fertility.

But beneath the scientific veneer, the sperm race may seem more like an opportunity for college students to display their adolescent humor and participate in a viral stunt.

Some attendees dressed in costumes, including one resembling male genitals, while the hosts made lewd jokes and roasted the competitors.

A YouTube livestream of the event attracted over 100,000 views.

"I can't say I learned stuff I didn't know before," 22-year-old student and audience member Alberto Avila-Baca told AFP.

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© Agence France-Presse-




Landerneau, France-Landerneau, population 16,000, on the far western tip of France's Britanny region, had tried twice before to wrest the record from Lauchringen, a town in Germany that managed to gather together a seemingly unassailable 2,762 smurfs in 2019.

But on Saturday, the French challengers finally pulverised that record, assembling 3,076 people clad and face-painted in blue, wearing white hats and singing smurfy songs.

"We smurfed the record," said one participant.

Smurfs, created by Belgian cartoonist Peyo in 1958 and called "Schtroumpfs" in French, are small, human-like creatures living in the forest.

The fun characters have turned into a major franchise that includes films, series, advertising, video games, theme parks and toys.

"A friend encouraged me to join and I thought: 'Why not?'," said Simone Pronost, 82, sipping a beer on the terrace of a cafe, dressed as a smurfette.

Albane Delariviere, a 20-year-old student, travelled all the way from Rennes -- more than 200 kilometres (125 miles) away -- to join.

"We thought it was a cool idea to help Landerneau out," she said.

Landerneau mayor Patrick Leclerc, also in full smurf dress, said the effort "brings people together and gives them something else to think about than the times we're living in".

Pascal Soun, head of the association organising the event, said the gathering "allows people to have fun and enter an imaginary world for a few hours".

Contestants were relieved that weather conditions were favourable, after the previous record attempt, in 2023, was sunk by heavy rain that kept many contestants away.

In 2020, an initially successful bid -- with more than 3,500 smurfs -- was invalidated by Guinness World Records on a technicality because of a missing document.

Landerneau's smurf enthusiasts were almost ready to give up but film production company Paramount persuaded them to have another go.

Paramount, which is set to release "Smurfs, The Movie" in July, convinced them with an offer to handle the event's PR and provide 1,200 free tickets for a preview of the film.

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© Agence France-Presse--

A small town in western France has set a world record for the greatest number of smurf-costumed people gathered in the same place, according to organisers, who counted over 3,000 this weekend.

 

Amsterdam, Netherlands - Like 18 other couples, the two men tied the knot on the A10, the motorway that runs around the Dutch capital, closed to cars for a day as part of celebrations marking 750 years since Amsterdam was founded.

"It really felt like the universe chose us," said Leslie, 32.

The couple were among the lucky few to be selected from 400 who applied to hold their wedding ceremony "op de ring" (on the ring).

"Everything was moving towards this," he said, with a wink at his now husband, whom he met six years ago in a nightclub.

For Zuzanna Lisowska, a 30-year-old engineer, decked out more traditionally in white and newly wedded to Yuri Iozzelli, the idea of motorway marriage just appealed to her sense of humour.

"It's just more fun than a random municipality office, right?" she laughed.

But the young Polish woman also acknowledged that sealing their union as part of a festival to celebrate the city in which they met was "really something special."

 

- 'Once in a lifetime' -

 

Under a baking sun, the weddings on the motorway took place from 10:30am (0830 GMT) to 8:00pm on Saturday night.

They were organised with military precision. Couples and their guests had 30 minutes to hold the ceremony in one tent, then one hour for a reception in another -- before the next happy couple arrived.

The weddings were anything but a quiet and private affair.

Around a quarter of a million partygoers had brought tickets to the festival and passers-by cheered and clapped every wedding with gusto.

"This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity," said Geralda Wickel, a festival-goer who had stopped by to cheer on a couple.

"If you're getting married anyway, why not on the Ring? As a real Amsterdam person, this is where you want to be," she said.

But the ring road was not quite romantic enough for Wickel, an event sales manager, to be tempted for such a wedding herself.

"I like the castle and the fairytale bit," she said.

For Dominique and Milan Lisser, who live in Weesp near Amsterdam, tying the knot in front of thousands and being questioned by several journalists was both a surreal and exhilarating experience.

"It feels like I'm a famous person," said Lisser, 32, dressed in a suit with a white shirt.

"There's so many people. It's almost all of Amsterdam," said the now Mrs Lisser, 30, in a white dress covered in sequins.

"I really love this. I'm kind of like an introvert, but extrovert as well. So I like the attention."

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© Agence France-Presse

Resplendent in bright pink, violet and orange costumes, Alexander Leslie and Guno Berkleef dance with their guests to the beat of a band on their way to their wedding... on the Amsterdam ring road.

 


Kisiljevo, Serbia-Pushing through thick scrub, local historian Nenad Mihajlovic pulls back branches to reveal the gravesite. According to locals, it is the long-lost burial site of Petar Blagojevic, known as the father of vampires.

Backed by historical record, Mihajlovic and his fellow villagers hope Kisiljevo, about 100 kilometres east of the capital, Belgrade, can stake its claim as the cradle of vampires and suck in tourists.

It was here, in the summer of 1725, well before Irish writer Bram Stoker made Dracula's infamous home, that villagers exhumed Blagojevic's body, suspecting him of rising from the grave at night to kill locals.

"Petar Blagojevic was found completely intact," recalled Mirko Bogicevic, a former village mayor whose family has lived there for 11 generations.

"When they drove a hawthorn stake through him, fresh red blood flowed from his mouth and ears," said Bogicevic, Blagojevic's unofficial biographer.

"He was probably just an ordinary man who had the fortune -- or misfortune -- to become a vampire. All we know is that he came from Kisiljevo, and his name appears in records from around 1700," he added, holding a copy of the Wienerisches Diarium, the imperial Viennese gazette dated July 21, 1725.

The article marks the beginning of the Kisiljevo vampire.

 

- Drinking blood -

 

Based on accounts from Austrian doctors and military officials, it was likely a mistranslation that gave rise to the myth, said Clemens Ruthner, head of the Centre for European Studies at Trinity College Dublin.

"There's an old Bulgarian word, Upior, meaning 'bad person'. I believe the villagers mumbled it, and the doctors misunderstood, writing down 'vampire' in their report," Ruthner said.

The Austrians, who were dispatched to the border region of the Habsburg Empire to investigate a series of unexplained deaths, then saw blood coming from the body.

"They assumed blood drinking. But that's wrong -- it's not what the villagers said."

Instead, people described victims dying from suffocation, detailing symptoms that closely match with a high fever caused by a serious infection, according to Ruthner.

He suggested an anthrax outbreak may explain the strange deaths.

"Vampirism, like witchcraft, is, in anthropological terms, a common model for explaining things people don't understand -- especially collective events like epidemics."

Three centuries later, few have visited Kisiljevo, a sleepy village nestled between cornfields and a lake, but some locals are determined to change that.

Lost through time and superstition, Blagojevic's grave was rediscovered using a suitably arcane method, hunting for "energy nodes" with a dowsing rod.

"This tomb, whose gravestone has weathered over the centuries, showed signs of something very unusual," Mihajlovic added, gesturing to the stone believed to mark the alleged burial plot.

"Right next to where we are standing, something truly strange happened -- the dowsing rods literally plunged into the soil. The dowser had never seen anything like it."

But the alleged bloodsucker is no longer there -- once dug up, his body was burned, and his ashes scattered in a nearby lake.

 

- Reviving the legend -

 

Beyond the demonic undead, promoting other folklore has a "huge potential" to lure tourists and investors to the region, Dajana Stojanovic, head of the local tourism office, said.

"Our region is rich in myths and legends -- not just the story of Petar Blagojevic, but also Vlach magic and unique local customs," she added, referring to the semi-nomadic traders and shepherds who once roamed the Balkans. "Every village has its traditions."

However, for Mihajlovic, it is about presenting an accurate history of his town -- one he firmly believes in.

"We have a fully documented account of an extremely unusual event — one officially identified as a case of vampirism," the 68-year-old history professor said.

"I personally believe in the authenticity of that report."

He isn't alone. Bottles of rakija -- Serbian brandy -- infused with garlic and chilli are still kept in a few homes around the village.

Just in case.

cbo-oz/al/giv/fg

© Agence France-Presse-

At the back of an overgrown cemetery in a tiny Serbian village, a mysterious 300-year-old headstone marks the grave of the first recorded vampire.

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