Paris, France | Nigerian Kenneth Ize made a storming Paris fashion week debut Monday with his "fairy godmother", supermodel Naomi Campbell, closing the showing.

The 29-year-old, who has had a meteoric rise to the Paris catwalk, lavished praise on the ageless British model who he said had supported him "from day one".

Both were cheered by the fashionistas as the end of the show.

"I am living my dream," Ize told reporters backstage after the show on the opening night of Paris fashion week.

"Naomi made this happen. She has been part of the journey since day one. She is very supportive. She is my fairy godmother," he declared.

Ize has made an name for himself reinterpreting traditional West African fabrics such as the aso oke cloth woven by the Yoruba people, and his autumn winter collection was full of it.

He told AFP that the show was inspired by his memories of going to Catholic church in Lagos with his mother, with everyone in their Sunday best outfits.

- Black hearts -

"It is about my religion, love, who I am, the people I believe in and sharing," he added. 

It is a big week for black African designers on the Paris catwalk with the South African Thebe Magugu, who won the LVMH Young Fashion Designer of the year prize, getting a special official presentation slot Tuesday.

Last month Cameroonian creator Imane Ayissi made history by becoming the first black African designer to be admitted to the elite ranks of Paris haute couture.

Like Ayissi, Ize is a champion of traditional African fabrics and techniques with the LVMH prize jury -- where he lost out to Magugu -- praising his "authenticity and the fight to source and produce locally in Nigeria".

Ize also reflected African silhouettes with tunics worn over trousers. "I believe in the way I dress, this is who I am," said the designer, who partially grew up in Austria, where he studied in Vienna under the Turkish Cypriot British designer Hussein Chalayan.

Earlier, South Korean designer Kiminte Kimhekim sent out a playful black and white collection centred on black heart motifs, with one model even sporting a heart-shaped hairstyle.

fg/jj

© Agence France-Presse

Paris, France |

Paris women's fashion week began late Monday with the face mask already its must-have accessory.

With two Chinese brands -- Shiatzy Chen and Jarel Zhang -- missing from the runway because of the coronavirus epidemic, the biggest wardrobe dilemma for fashionistas is whether to wear a mask or not.

Giorgio Armani saved their blushes Sunday by staging his Milan show behind closed doors because of the outbreak of the virus in Codogno, 70 kilometres (43 miles) southeast of the city.

But fashionistas were already wearing masks to earlier shows in the Italian fashion capital before news of the cluster of deaths led to several towns in its Lombardy region being locked down. 

Paris Fashion Week -- which attracts thousands of buyers from all over the world -- is not taking any particular measures against the epidemic, but the fall-out from the crisis has sent shares in many fashion conglomerates plummeting.

Chanel have also put back a show they were due to stage in Beijing in May after "taking into account the recommendations of the Chinese authorities". 

But Bernard Arnault, whose LVMH empire is the world's biggest luxury goods group, sought to play down the long-term economic impact of the virus.

"The Chinese government have taken the problem on frontally, and in a transparent manner and efficient manner I think," he told French radio.

- Rising Nigerian star -

Chatter over coronavirus, and the rising prices of face masks, which wags claim are becoming a luxury item themselves, have somewhat overshadowed the Paris debut of young Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize.

The 29-year-old has made a name for himself reinterpreting traditional West African fabrics such as the aso oke cloth woven by the Yoruba people, and counts supermodel Naomi Campbell among his fans.

Having studied in Vienna under the Turkish Cypriot British designer Hussein Chalayan, Ize has had a meteoric rise.

Although he has been showing on and off in Lagos since 2013, he showed a menswear collection last year in a friend's Paris apartment and found himself shortlisted for the prestigious LVMH prize.

His debut comes after the Cameroonian creator Imane Ayissi made history last month by becoming the first black African designer to be admitted to the elite ranks of Paris haute couture.

Like Ayissi, Ize is a champion of traditional African fabrics and techniques with the LVMH jury praising his "authenticity and the fight to source and produce locally in Nigeria".

His autumn winter collection in Paris is inspired by his memories of going to church with his mother, with everyone in their Sunday best outfits.

Ize's is one of four labels making their Paris debut alongside French brands Coperni and Gauchere -- which is led by German designer Marie-Christine Statz -- and the Japanese brand Noir Kei Ninomiya. 

neo-fg/jj

© Agence France-Presse

New Delhi, India | Trade ties between the United States and India have long been problematic but under "America First" President Donald Trump and "Make in India" Prime Minister Narendra Modi, they have worsened.

New York, United States |From recycled cashmere and protective clothing for uncertain times to singer Debbie Harry and tennis star Maria Sharapova, AFP takes a look at the latest highlights from New York Fashion Week.

- Dressing responsibly -

Gabriela Hearst cemented her reputation as the flag-bearer of high-end responsible fashion with a stunning fall-winter collection that focused on sustainability at New York Fashion week Tuesday.

Hearst's designs were all made from natural fibers, including recycled cashmere and remnants of antique Turkish rugs that were pieced together to form long coats.

Many of the sweaters, cardigans, shawls and dresses had been handknitted by Manos del Uruguay, a non-profit cooperative of female artisans from Hearst's home country.

The collection had a distinctly 1970s vibe with hand-painted leather coats and designs chosen from mandalas or abstract shapes associated with dreams.

Any carbon footprint from the show will be offset via a donation to a project that aims to save the Cardamom forest in Cambodia.

"True luxury is knowing where everything comes from and how it is made," said Hearst, who grew up on a sheep farm in Uruguay. 

- Vera Wang's ace -

Tennis star Maria Sharapova served up a celebrity appearance in all black at Vera Wang's show held in a plush Upper East Side mansion just off Central Park Tuesday. 

The multiple grand slam winner sat front row alongside Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and English fashion journalist Hamish Bowles.

Models glanced at themselves in the grand residence's elaborate mirrors as they walked through the house's various rooms wearing black silk chiffon paired with thick platform heels.

Seventy-year-old Wang's evening wear also included a neon yellow French tulle corset and a green floral featherweight stretch long sleeve bodysuit.

"I wanted to bring a kind of importance but a lack of formality, a kind of ease, youth, charm and delicacy to the evening," Wang told AFP.

- Debbie Harry in NY tribute  -

Rocker Debbie Harry rolled back the years as Coach 1941 paid tribute to New York's past, present and future Tuesday.

The Blondie lead singer, 74, performed alongside Atlanta band The Coathangers as they added a 1970s touch to a collection that celebrated "New York's unique creative energy."

More than six years after taking over as creative director, British designer Stuart Vevers continues to evolve Coach, which will notch its 80th anniversary next year.

After shifting to a more urban collection last season, Vevers accelerated that movement with a distinctly vintage streetwear look this time around.

The flat sneakers, large socks and hipster hats were straight from the streets of Brooklyn while several designs were inspired by the paintings of local artist Jean-Michel Basquiat.

"New York was the ultimate muse for this collection," Vevers told AFP.

- Gigi Hadid -

If jury selection had gone differently then US model Gigi Hadid would have been in court for Harvey Weinstein's rape trial instead of walking the runway for Proenza Schouler Monday.

Hadid, 24, was last month excused from serving as one of the jurors in the high-profile case owing to her fame after appearing for the first round of pre-screening.

On Monday, she lined up for Proenza Schouler's 2020 fall-winter collection, which, after a spring show that evoked the 1980s, approached the present and near future head-on.

The New York duo of Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough showcased a series of large, thick coats complemented by big shawls, designed to provide protection in an "unpredictable decade."

"For us it's always a mood, an attitude. We just take it from the world around us," Hernandez told AFP, following the late Monday show.

"Things are falling off, falling apart, unraveling but then held together. It's just like how people feel right now," he added.

New York Fashion Week ends Wednesday.

pdh-tu-lbc/ft

London, United Kingdom |

Milan, Italy | It was business as usual  for Milan Fashion Week despite a clutch of coronavirus cases including two fatalities near the northern venue.

Barely 60 kilometres (35 miles) away from the capital of the Lombardy region, where outfits from Salvatore Ferragamo and Ermanno Scervino were headlining runway interest, 39 confirmed cases have emerged.

The small town of Codogno, about an hour away from Italy's business capital by road, was in lockdown along with several other neighbouring towns after the deaths of an elderly woman and man.

Those fatalities saw Italy become the first country in Europe to report the death of one of its own nationals from the virus.

Authorities confirmed Saturday the other people infected had all had contact with "patient number one", a 38-year-old man still in intensive care in Codogno.

Members of his family, friends and his doctors are all among those who have been disgnosed with the COVID-19 virus and Italian authorities have reacted by asking some 50,000 people in the area to stay at home to keep the virus spread at bay.

"The (fashion) shows are going ahead calmly, there is no panic, there are no cases of contamination or suspicion of cases in Milan or in our sector for the moment and we hope that stays so," said Carlo Capasa, president of Italy's National Fashion Chamber.

"Prevention measures are absolutely active -- we are in permanent contact with health institutions who tell us the situation is under control," Capasa told AFP.

Salvatore Ferragamo's new collection had been the day's early highlight, the Florence-based house's British creative director Paul Andrew bringing its legendary flair alive with items including long coats and culottes.

Lingerie-inspired dresses, in silk or leather, were more the order of the day for the Scervino set, replete with shiny sequins and feathers.

Also on bill was was Bottega Veneta, owned by French luxury house Kering, winning a seal of approval from actress Sigourney Weaver, who found it "superb".

The house's US artistic director Daniel Lee, 34, is avowedly out to turn a cold shoulder on the sensational in offering a collection which will pack a punch over time and ultimately even earn cult status rather than be cast aside at season's end. 

The collection married classic Bottega Veneta style with a modern approach to colour including silhouettes ranging from black to pistachio green, while other offerings included knitted black frock paired with Texan-style big boots.

str-fka/avz/cdw/har

© Agence France-Presse

Liverpool, United Kingdom | It's a Liverpool institution that was a favourite hangout of The Beatles. Now, the Philharmonic Dining Rooms has become the first Victorian-era English pub to be given Grade I listed status.

"The Phil", as it's known in the city, was built in 1898 by architect Walter W Thomas during the "golden age" of pub building in the 19th century.

The venue, opposite the Liverpool Philharmonic Hall concert venue, is notable for its exuberant grand stone exterior and richly decorated interior.

John Lennon once complained that the worst thing about being in The Beatles was "not being able to have a pint in the Phil".

Band-mate Paul McCartney returned to the city where the band made their name and surprised drinkers with an impromptu show there in 2018.

The pub, Grade II listed since 1955, now joins other architectural gems such as Buckingham Palace and Chatsworth House after Historic England upgraded it to a top-ranking Grade I.

Duncan Wilson, chief executive of Historic England, called the Phil a remarkable survivor from the Victorian era. 

The listing "will help maintain and preserve its outstanding interior fittings and exterior fabric for the future", he added

The pub's exterior boasts obelisk finials, tall chimney stacks, turrets and a balustraded balcony around the second floor.

Its art nouveau entrance gates are considered to be among the finest of their style in England.

Inside, ornate plasterwork, detailed stained glass, and mahogany fireplaces surround the horseshoe-shaped bar.

Landlord Eamonn Lavin said the new listing was a "real honour".

"We got people from all over the world -- Japan, America, France, everywhere, Europe -- and they all come in just to see the building and sample some of the beers and drink," he told AFP.

"So it's got real rich history as well. And Liverpool is a city that's quite interesting anyway. So, this is just the icing on the cake for tourists really."

photo-video-jwp/phz/jxb/mgs

© Agence France-Presse