Paris, France  - The womenswear autumn-winter season finally comes to a halt having rumbled through New York, London and Milan before ending in the French capital. Here are some of the highlights from the final set of shows in Paris.

 

- Vivienne and Paco, au revoir -

The fashion crowd said adieu to two titans of 20th century design.

Vivienne Westwood's widower Andreas Kronthaler presented something of a greatest hits collection, with new takes on her iconic pirate boots, corsets, petticoats and platform shoes.

"Maybe the most important thing you ever taught me was to put the woman on a pedestal," he said in a poem accompanying the show, while Westwood's granddaughter Cora Corre capped proceedings in an appropriately inappropriate wedding dress.

For the farewell to eccentric Spaniard Paco Rabanne, who died last month at 88, it was the clanging, tinkling sound of gold and silver dresses -- a fitting memorial to the man behind the sci-fi "improbable dresses" of the 1960s.

- Balenciaga's Humble-core -

When the hype bubble grows too large and bursts in your face, it's time for a reset.

Balenciaga's Demna was in full contrition mode after disastrous ad campaigns last year that appeared to reference child abuse (unintentionally, he insists).

No clever stagings or provocative $1,500 trash bags this time -- just a clean white room and some elegant clothes. Call it "Humble-core".

Before the fall, it would have been "praised to high heaven", said the New York Times, but in the circumstances it "seemed more like the march of the penitents".

 

- Buyer's delight -

For the buyers from Harrods, the highlights included Chloe, Rick Owens and Schiaparelli.

It was Chloe designer Gabriela Hearst's "strongest collection to date," said the department store's womenswear head Clemmie Harris, with "luxurious fabrics... in newer, cleaner shapes" and "instant must-haves" such as puffer capes and shearling vests.

Rick Owens consistently finds new twists on his dark, alien aesthetic -- this time with dramatic capes and huge cocooning wraps.

"While always true to his distinct and compelling vision he never fails to push the boundaries," said Simon Longland, Harrods director of buying.

There was also praise for the first pret-a-porter catwalk show by Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry: "An important step in the revival of the house... rich in detail fabrication and execution," said Longland.

 

- Louis Vuitton eye-lights

The French brand's hot streak was evident from the front row, which included film stars Zendaya, Alicia Vikander and Lea Seydoux, as well as hip-hop artist Pharrell Williams, its newly minted menswear designer.

The show was a mix of classic, elegant and inventive tailoring, but it was accessories like the light-up visors that grabbed the most attention.

 

- Pencilled in -

Last cool when it was encircling the legs of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, several labels seem to think it's time to bring back the pencil skirt.

They were part of Dior's homage to the 1950s -- though in a crumpled, less figure-hugging form -- while Saint Laurent combined them with giant shoulder pads and aviator shades to create some kind of ultra-elegant 1980s fever dream.

Young designer Charles de Vilmorin made them out of vinyl for Rochas and what he called a "pimped-out mermaid silhouette".

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Ferndale, United States  - In New York, one of the most celebrated culinary centers in the world, a war over foie gras is pitting the city, backed by animal rights activists, against duck farmers and restaurant owners, whose position is supported by the state.

Karen Frommer, enjoying a meal at an upscale restaurant in Manhattan, shrugs when asked about the Big Apple's ban on the sale, consumption and possession of the controversial delicacy.

"We will never be able to deal with vegans at all," the 78-year-old tells AFP.

"But if they are always focused on the feeding of the ducks, let them watch a film on a slaughtering process of lambs, or housing of chickens in huge buildings," she adds.

The retiree developed a taste for foie gras in southwestern France half a century ago and often eats it terrine, whole or pan-friend at the restaurant 15East @ Tocqueville.

For director Marco Moreira, a Brazilian of Italian origin, "It's hard to imagine no fine dining without foie gras."

For now he doesn't have to, as the courts consider a challenge to New York City's ban that was supposed to take effect last November.

All of the foie gras in New York is made exclusively in the state of 20 million people, as France no longer exports the controversial delicacy.

Ex-NYC mayor Bill de Blasio signed off on municipal legislation outlawing foie gras in November 2019, following a similar move in California and after lobbying by animal welfare associations.

Lawmakers ruled it was cruel to force-feed ducks and geese to fatten their livers for human consumption, and the ban prohibiting any establishment from selling, serving or even possessing foie gras was due to take effect three years after its passage.

But last September, New York state's two largest duck farms and foie gras producers -- Hudson Valley Foie Gras Farm and La Belle Farm -- won a stay on the ban from a local court.

Late last year, restaurant owners and farmers then won the support of the New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets, which challenged the legality of New York City's law.

The dispute deepened further when in January the city, led since last year by center-right Democrat and vegan Eric Adams, countered by suing the state to get the ban back in place.

Farmer and producer Marcus Henley is equally certain of his rights, with foie gras legal everywhere else in New York state.

Resembling an old rocker, and with a slow, soft-spoken delivery, the vice president of Hudson Valley Foie Gras Farm gives AFP a tour of his huge duck and chicken operation in Ferndale, two hours northwest of Manhattan.

'Worrisome' -

Employing 320 mostly Latin American farm workers who force-feed, slaughter, bleed, pluck and then remove the livers from the ducks, Henley says he generates $25 million in annual sales.

He would lose a quarter of that if the ban comes into force.

"Anytime you go into court, it's always a little worrisome," the 66-year-old says.

"(But) you can't pass a local law that negatively impacts farming in a state-certified agricultural district," he adds, showing off pens full of tens of thousands of ducks, which are raised from three days old until they are killed at 105 days.

Under huge, creaking sheds amid a pungent smell typical of poultry farming, three-month-old ducks are force-fed with compressor machines bearing plastic pipes and tubes that send grain mixed with water into their gizzards.

The practice is banned in several countries, including Britain.

"I can tell you as a farmer, that, no, absolutely not, the animals don't suffer," insists Henley, who believes the gizzard has a natural storage function.

"It's easy to anthropomorphize," says the trained scientist. (But) animals and people are different," he adds.

Bryan Pease, a lawyer for the Voters for Animal Rights association, which worked on the New York law, is shocked by the ducks' treatment.

"The vast majority of people believe that all animals deserve to be humanely treated, even animals raised for food," he told AFP.

Pease is convinced that foie gras will disappear from New York City tables for good "in a few months."

But until judges rule on the final decision, all predictions are for now just speculation.

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US President Joe Biden's budget blueprint released proposes cutting deficits by nearly $3 trillion in the next decade along with a minimum tax on the wealthiest, an announcement seen as a build-up to his reelection pitch.

But the proposals set up a long stand-off in Congress -- which is currently split between Democratic and Republican control -- to set and fund a budget for the government.

Here are some highlights:

 

- Taxing wealth -

 

The president is proposing a 25 percent minimum tax on the wealthiest 0.01 percent, or those with wealth exceeding $100 million, according to the budget proposal released Thursday.

He also seeks to raise the corporate tax rate to 28 percent from 21 percent, undoing legislation passed under his Republican predecessor Donald Trump in 2017.

The plan lifts the top tax rate to 39.6 percent as well for single filers earning more than $400,000 a year, and nearly doubles the capital-gains rate for those who make more than $1 million.

But in general, those earning less than $400,000 annually are not to pay more in new taxes.

 

- Healthcare -

 

A core feature of Biden's proposals is a plan to raise taxes on high-earners to ensure that Medicare -- the government-funded health care system for people over 65 -- remains solvent.

The budget raises the Medicare tax from 3.8 percent to five percent for the wealthiest Americans.

The aim is to extend the solvency of the Medicare Trust Fund by at least 25 years, amid warnings that the program risks running out of money by 2028 without intervention.

The budget also aims to lower the cost of prescription drugs, including proposals to curb inflation in drug costs and cap the prices of insulin products at $35 for a monthly prescription.

 

- Cutting 'wasteful spending' -

 

The White House added Thursday that the President's budget will cut the federal deficit by nearly $3 trillion over the next decade -- up from the $2 trillion reduction Biden was earlier aiming for.

Apart from "making the wealthy and big corporations pay their fair share," the aim is to slash "wasteful spending" on Big Pharma and the oil industry as well, the White House said.

The budget seeks to lower spending by raising the number of drugs Medicare can negotiate the prices of, while expanding a requirement under the Inflation Reduction Act for drug manufacturers to pay rebates when they raise prices faster than inflation.

It also looks to eliminate special tax treatment for oil and gas company investments -- saving $31 billion -- and end a tax subsidy allowing real estate investors to put off paying tax on profits from deals, as long as they keep investing in property.

 

- Defense and security -

 

But amid efforts to slash the deficit and support Medicare, the budget also flags continued support for Ukraine and the United States' alliance with the states of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization.

It requests resources to "out-compete China" while looking to boost capabilities in the face of "Russian aggression."

The budget includes nearly $25 billion for US Customs and Border Protection and Immigration and Customs Enforcement, with funds to hire more border patrol agents and fight fentanyl trafficking.

The proposal also includes a 3.2 percent increase in defense spendings, from last year's figures.

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- Seoul City opens Seoul Fashion Week Pavilion in Tranoï, the Paris Fashion Week’s official tradeshow

- Tradeshow dates are March 2-5, and the Korean pavilion showcases six womenswear designers’ 2023 F/W at the tradeshow’s Palais Brongniart venue

- Seoul City is focused on consulting global buyers, driving sales overseas sales and on online platforms

- Seoul City will present five menswear designer brands at Tranoï and a 3-brand joint fashion show this June

 

The Seoul Metropolitan Government announced that the presentation of the six Korean womenswear designer brands at the 2023 F/W Paris Fashion Week Tranoï (March 2-5) Palais Brongniart venue was successful.

 

SMG signed an MOU last spring with Tranoï, the official tradeshow concurrent to Paris Fashion Week (PFW). Through this MOU, a SFW pavilion opened at Paris’ Tranoï trade show, aimed to support European sales engagement of Korean designer brands.

 

Tranoï is the Paris Fashion Week’s exclusive tradeshow, a global B2B event that brings together a community of ready-to-wear and accessories designers selected by Tranoï in partnership with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (Fhcm). The trade show brings together major buyers from global destinations including Europe, the Middle East, and the North Americas, across major department stores, boutique shops, and online shops.

 

The 6 SFW womenswear brands that showcased at the 2023 F/W Tranoï were: Kwak Hyun Joo Collection, DOUCAN, LIE, MMAM, Vegan Tiger, and tibaeg.

 

The SFW pavilion was situated on the ground floor of the Basilica of Notre-Dame des Victoires, where Seoul City attended closely to space-composition for an immersive and appealing buying experience. 

 

Seoul City collaborated with Tranoï to set up a dedicated sales team focused on driving per-brand sales and contract signings at the tradeshow. Online order consultation was provided via entry support for Le New Black, an B2B fashion platform, as well as a special exhibition . On March 3 (Friday) at 10:30 a.m. (local time), the event was live broadcasted for buyers who were unable to visit the tradeshow in person.

 

Le New Black is a B2B fashion e-commerce platform partnered with Fhcm (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode). The platform offers virtual showrooms where items can be registered and viewed, buyers and sellers consulted, and orders placed.

 

The 6 SFW designers presented a catalog of uniquely Korean fashion and engaged in order consultations with buyers around the world. Seoul City is set to provide SFW’s Tranoï presenters with ongoing support to ensure successful contracts.

 

The designers who presented at Tranoï are set to return from Paris and participate in Seoul Fashion Week, slated from March 15 (Wednesday) to 19 (Sun). A broad and colorful set of brand fashion shows is ready to step out before guests at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP), visiting from near and far. SFW is scheduled for 31 brand fashion shows, concurrently with a 67-brand SFW tradeshow.

 

In step with the rising European interest in Korean Fashion, Seoul City announced further support for 5 Korean menswear designer brands at the Tranoï tradeshow in June 22-25, at Garage Amelot in Paris. The 5 menswear brands to present at the 24 S/S show in June are Beyond Closet, sling stone, AJOBYAJO, IRYUK, and ul:kin.

 

Concurrently in Paris, three men’s brands will present a joint fashion show, making it the first time in 22 years of SFW history that a SFW menswear brand is showcased on the runway at Paris Fashion Week. The three brands slated for the runway are ul:kin, Beyond Closet, and sling stone. In particular, ul:kin will also grace the opening runway event at the 2023 F/W SFW.


Song Ho-jae, Director-General of Economy & Employment Planning Bureau at SMG stated, “Seoul Fashion Week first entered the Paris Tranoï tradeshow last year, and has since found enough footing to introduce Korean fashion competitively in the European market,” and added, “The city will continue to provide support and bolster sales, public relations, and marketing efforts to ensure that these brands not only participate in these events, but also reach successful sales deals and contracts. Seoul Fashion Week has the potential to become an attractive springboard for Korean designers seeking overseas expansion.”

- Instructional session on U.S. trademark registration for Korean designer brands, during SFW Trade Show

- Customs and legal experts to instruct on drafting documents for international trade, payment, and practical matters, followed by a Q&A session

- Consultation booths for first-time exporters seeking trade and logistics advice, during SFW Trade Show 

- Seoul City to support Korean brands seeking entry into overseas markets, as international interest in Korean fashion grows

 

A “crash course” seminar will open for budding designers seeking export opportunities.

 

An instructional seminar for export-hopefuls is set for March 17 (Fri), in the midst of the Seoul Fashion Week (SFW) Trade Show (March 15-19). The crash-course seminar will open at the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) Design Lab 3F Design Hall, with customs officials, lawyers, and other experts providing condensed must-know information and practices for Korean design brands new to product export, brand and trademark registration, and international trade agreements.

 

The Seoul Metropolitan Government (SMG) announced a seminar aimed to springboard Korean designer brands overseas. The instructional seminar will be a crash-course delivered by customs and legal experts on drafting documents for international trade, payment related to exports, clearing customs, registering brands and trademarks overseas, and other practical matters, followed by a Q&A session.

 

The SFW Trade show is an initiative first opened by the SMG in 2016, aimed to foster and spotlight new fashion talent and brands as well as invigorate the Korean fashion industry. The Trade Show includes a variety of support programs to foster and advance Korean designer brands and to launch them onto the global runway.

 

This crash-course seminar is hardly an isolated event. During the SFW Trade Show (March 15-19), consultation booths will open on the DDP 2F Design Lab where interested businesses can seek custom consultation on international trade and export logistics. 

 

Consultation services are provided by The Consulting Group, a firm specialized in customs, tariffs and trade, and Swoop by Hanjin, a firm specialized in logistic services for Korean fashion brands expanding overseas.

 

All participating brands in the SFW Trade Show are encouraged to visit the booths on the DDP 2F Design Lab for consultation, even if between buyer meetings.

 

Businesses and individuals interested in participating in the Seoul Fashion Week Trade Show seminar "Trade Practices and Trademark Application" can register via the Seoul Fashion Week Trade Show website (https://www.tradegns.com/seminar/), starting February 25 (Sat). The seminar is open to the first 100 registrants, with on-site participation subject to availability.

 

Song Ho-jae, Director-General of Economy & Employment Planning Bureau at SMG stated, “the seminar aims to help clarify the overall export processes for overseas export, which can be daunting and seemingly complex to first-timers.” He added, “International interest in Korean fashion has been on the rise, and the Seoul Metropolitan Government aims to help iron out challenges in export efforts. We will be planning and executing programs across multiple columns of support to our brands seeking entry into overseas markets.”

 

 - Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) venue confirmed for Seoul Fashion Week 2022 (March 15-19). Events to livestream on YouTube

 - K-pop’s newest darling girl group and fashion-icon NewJeans revealed as global ambassador for Seoul Fashion Week

 - Runway design overhaul, first in 22 years, and show order put to lottery for fairness and transparency

 - Seoul Fashion Week (SFW) tradeshow is the largest of its kind in Korea’s dynamic fashion industry, participated by 130+ buyers from 27 countries

 - SFW seeks to bolster sales in Europe via the Paris Fashion Week in March, invites non-industry individuals to all fashion shows

 - SFW aims to drive fashion industry growth and springboard Korean designers abroad

 

□ The Seoul Metropolitan Government (SMG) announced the 2023 Fall Winter Seoul Fashion Week (2023 F/W SFW) details, slated as a 5-day event from March 15 (Wed) to 19 (Sun) 

 

□ 2023 SFW fashion shows will be 100% on-site and livestreamed on SFW’s official YouTube channel (https://www.youtube.com/@SFW_official) for general public viewership

 

□ 2023 SFW ambassador is NewJeans, the fast-rising K-pop that soared into the U.S. Billboard’s Hot 100 six months after its debut and currently has two platinum albums. NewJeans’ promo video for SFW will premiere on the SFW YouTube (@SFW_official) channel on Saturday, February 25.

  ○ Seoul City officials designated NewJeans, fashion icons and “the next biggest thing in K-Pop” as global ambassadors to SFW. Less than year since debut, NewJeans was formally appointed as the honorary ambassador for the Seoul City on February 16, making SFW the group’s first official post. NewJeans will continue throughout 2023 to help promote SFW globally. 

  ○ NewJeans’ promo video for SFW showcases a mix-and-match of participating brands (UL:KIN, BLR BLUER, AJOBYAJO) and promotes the works of designers participating in SFW to global viewership. UL:KIN, BLR BLUER, and AJOBYAJO represent uniquely Korean fashion designers and brands that have powerful appeal to the Gen Y and Gen Z demographic. 

 

□ The 2023 F/W Seoul Fashion Week will feature three main events. 30 fashion shows for designer-brands trade show participated by 130+ buyers from 27 countries, largest of its kind in Korea citizen participation programs featuring fashion meshed with innovative tech. 

 

30 quintessential Korean designers of the year present their F/W season collection at the show, with significant changes to stage design and an introduction of the show order lottery system. 

 

□ The stage is now a circular walkway (previously pier-form) for improved audience experience. This is fresh stage design change is unprecedented in the SFW’s 23-year history. The new design allows for shows with greater clarity and maximum exposure of visual beauty, with participating brands given a variety of unique runways.

  ○ The stadium runway in Art Hall 1 now has a radial structure that is intuitively immersive, drawing in viewers into the show. The runway in Art Hall 2 now features a versatile LED backwall. 

 

□ All Seoul Collection fashion shows, except the opening stage, will be ordered by lottery drawn by designers, addressing concerns of fairness. The opening stage will be performed by UL:KIN designer Lee Seong Dong, who was awarded top score by the brand-selection panel. 

 

□ Support has been bolstered for designer excellence, to advance and develop SFW. “Top 5 shows we want to revisit” will be selected by Korean and international buyers, and selected brands will receive favorable consideration next season. 

  ○ "Top 5 Brands" is a new review system to be tried out this year, selecting 5 brands across Seoul Collection (established brands) and Generation Next (emerging brands) for international buyer preference. The 5 brands will be provided considerations such as next season free participation, show order preference, and partial support for fashion show expenses.

 

The largest fashion industry trade show in Korea is set to open concurrently at DDP Design Lab D(D)-Forest. This season, more than 130 buyers from 27 countries around the world are set to participate, including department stores and select shops (big buyers) expected to maximize B2B exports. 

 ○ The trade show will feature 70+ established designer brands (SC-Seoul Collection), emerging designers (GN-Generation Next), and stakeholders (TS-Trade Show) influential and significant to the Korean fashion landscape. The show floor and booths will provide Korean and international buyers, distributors, and investment companies to engage directly and inject new vitality into the domestic fashion industry with the boost over the pandemic slump.

 

□ Tranoï, the official Paris Fashion Week trade show will dedicate a pavilion to Seoul Fashion Week, with six womenswear designers representing Seoul. This year plans for additional SFW pavilions in New York and Tokyo during respective fashion weeks have been under development as part of broader initiative to support Korean designers’ entry into the global fashion industry.

 ○ SMG signed a partnership last spring with Tranoï, the official tradeshow concurrent to Paris Fashion Week. This has launched the event launched an SFW pavilion at Paris’ Tranoï trade show, aimed to support European sales engagement.

 ○ Tranoï, the Parisian trade show is set for March 2 (Thu) to March 5 (Fri) at the Palais Brongniart in Paris. 

 

Show venue DDP’s Eoullim Plaza will be the ground for a “K-Fashion Spirit” public area for hands-on experience and fun, including a live studio for fashion influencers as well as a photo-zone where citizens can vicariously experience the catwalk via AI technology.

 ○ Individual brand booths related to fashion and beauty will also be on the grounds to provide SFW visitors a fun and unforgettable experience about fashion. 

 

□ SMG aims to lower the entry barrier to SFW events and broaden touchpoints with non-industry citizens, holding a SFW Fashion Show Invitation Event from February 23 (Thu) to March 6 (Mon). SFW guests can apply to reserve shows to visit in-person on the Seoul Fashion Week website (www.seoulfashionweek.org) during reservation periods, and the raffled show invitations will be sent to the winners starting March 7 (Tue). 

 ○ A detailed schedule of the 2023 F/W SFW is available on the official website of Seoul Fashion Week (http://www.seoulfashionweek.org), Kakao Channel (Seoul Fashion Week 2023), and Instagram (@seoulfashionweek_official).

 

□ Kim Tae-kyun, Director of Economic Policy Office at SMG, was quoted "The competitiveness of SMEs in fashion manufacturing continue to face challenges and polarization as we pass the “pandemic-corridor.” He added, “We will develop SFW as a springboard for overseas opportunities for our capable fashion designers and a growth-engine for Korean fashion competitiveness. We want to see more big-buyers, nurture even more talented designers, and engage more citizens to improve the foundations of our fashion industry.”

Paris (AFP) – It was used to build the Great Wall of China and Spain's mediaeval Alhambra Palace -- and now earth is back in vogue as a building material.

Climate change has spurred renewed interest in the ancient technique which sees polluting concrete swapped where possible for earth.

For centuries, mud and clay were an abundantly available way to put a roof over one's head, but earth's environmental credentials are behind its modern-day resurgence.

"A kilo of cement emits a kilo of CO2. Whereas a kilo of earth emits none," Xavier Chateau of the Navier Laboratory at the French National Centre for Scientific Research said.

"If we could reduce by 25 percent the volume of cement consumed globally it would be equivalent to negating the impact on the climate of all air transport," he estimated.

Known as rammed earth construction, the practice dates at least as far back as the Neolithic era.

It involves compacting certain soils into a mold, of sorts, to make building blocks or build up whole walls, layer by layer.

More than two billion people across some 150 countries live in buildings made of earth, according to a 2006 guide on earth building by French authors Hugo Houben and Hubert Guillaud.

Advocates say it can help reduce reliance on concrete, which accounts for about eight percent of global CO2 emissions.

Earth also has a high thermal capacity by self-regulating its humidity, is fireproof, non-toxic and can be completely recycled.

But it has downsides too, not least the cost, given the need to find builders qualified in ancient techniques.

- 'Earth concrete' hybrid -

Confronted with flooding, earth-constructed buildings need protection, as earth also has its weaknesses.

A four-storey rammed earth building crumpled in France's southeastern Rhone region in November, while a house collapsed in the nearby department of Isere on December 22, according to local press reports.

Often substances such as lime or straw can be added to the earth to stabilise it and bolster its durability.

French building material firm Saint-Gobain is experimenting with a hybrid system of "earth concrete", combining excavated earth from construction sites, steel industry waste and hemp.

But purists see it as verging on heresy, in a country due to complete a 9,000-seat concert coliseum north of Paris next year using recycled excavated earth.

"It's not the same material at all," complains architect Paul-Emmanuel Loiret, who manages La Fabrique outside Paris where blocks and bricks of compressed earth are made from construction rubble.

Urging a "complete and rapid decarbonisation" of construction, he complained that EU laws "impose on us materials 10 to 20 times more durable than those which we need."

But, said Chateau: "In Africa, in Burkina Faso or Malawi, it's become a kind of artisanal savoir-faire to stabilise raw earth with cement at the foot of the building to solve the problem of water" encroachment.

'Huge demand'

Austria has Europe's only factory to date making low-energy prefab homes using rammed earth methods.

The site, in the western village of Schlins on the Liechtenstein border, creates foundations, floors and walls using chalk, clay, chopped straw, lime or gravel.

A machine pounds the earth which is compacted into a vast casing to produce 40-metre (130-foot) long walls.

Once dried and cut to size, the blocks are sent off to be assembled.

"Given the ecological challenge and the problem of energy, huge demand is emerging for this material," said environmentalist, entrepreneur and former potter Martin Rauch, who built the factory.

 

Architect Sami Akkach who works with Rauch said they use earth from the surrounding area, building and excavation sites.

"It must contain clay, gravel, angular rather than round so it really sticks," Akkach said.

Rauch has several earth-constructed buildings to his name, including his home whose exterior walls include terracotta designed to act as a brake on rain and erosion, a throwback to ancient methods used in Saudi Arabia.

He says the factory boasts Europe's longest earthen wall -- at 67 metres -- and he believes the demand is there for more projects using rammed earth.

"The problem is there are not enough artisans and people are still too afraid of this natural material," he said.

He added that hopefully people will realise that "earth structures will last for centuries, if they are built correctly."

Paris (AFP) – Once the preserve of nerds and stuffy young conservatives, loafers, moccasins and other formal shoes are increasingly taking over from sneakers as the first choice for fashion-conscious men.

Romain Costa, a 32-year-old Parisian architect, is spoiled for choice as he considered the footwear options in his Montmartre apartment: sturdy-soled black loafers, funky-coloured brogues, leather or suede, with or without tassels...

He finally opts for a tricolor pair, that he matches with baggy jeans and an expansive black sweater, before hopping on his bike and heading off to work.

For him, sneakers were what he wore as a teenage skater.

"I like having adult shoes. At work, it's reassuring for clients. It makes me look more serious," he told AFP.

"And they age better than sneakers," he added.

Loafing plans

The trainer boom of the last decade is still going strong, but there are signs of a slowdown.

Data from industry website Business of Fashion showed 45 percent of well-heeled American and British men were planning to buy dress shoes in 2023, compared with around a third who were opting for sneakers.

And formal styles are all over red carpets and catwalks sported by trendsetters like rapper ASAP Rocky and US actor-director Donald Glover.

French designer Simon Porte Jacquemus -- so hot right now, as the fashionistas say -- wore black loafers and dressed his models in them for his last show in December, despite his high-profile sneaker collaboration with Nike.

Some are still struggling to get over the old connotations.

"There are never loafers at a Hermes show," said Pierre Hardy, who heads up shoe design at the French label. "It was really the preppie, right-wing, reactionary shoe."

They might not strike the right vibe for the catwalk, but Hermes still produces and sells loafers, and Hardy understands why sales have been spiking.

"After the lockdowns, people grew tired of everything being cosy. Now we have permission to go out and we want elegant, chic things," he said.

 

Mix and match

The same is happening across the water in Britain, where upmarket department store Browns has "definitely noticed a shift from fashionable sneaker styles to more formal footwear," according to its menswear manager Thom Scherdel.

"As we see less and less sneakers go down the runway, customers are taking note, with lots of people looking to mix and match casual and sartorial pieces in their wardrobe," he told AFP.

That marks one big change from the past: wearing formal shoes not just with suits, but with sportswear, overalls -- even shorts.

"There is a return of formal tailoring, but now with a comfort side, because people got used to jogging bottoms and we don't want to go back to tight-fitting clothes," said Hugues Fauchard of Uniforme, a young label that worked with shoemaker Weston on new versions of its classic loafer.

"The other important thing is that trainers fall apart quickly -- they're not durable and hard to repair," he said, pointing out that Weston offers lifetime repairs.

"We have to stop with these throw-away clothes."

It is perhaps an inevitable part of the fashion cycle, as new sneaker drops became ubiquitous and resale prices ridiculous (a pair of Nikes co-designed and worn by Kanye West sold for $1.8 million in 2021).

"Trainers were for all situations, all ages, and they put in the shade other shoes that gave more of a solid footing to men," fashion historian Olivier Saillard told AFP.

"But with every fashion, there is a boomerang effect."

 
 

 

 

Paris (AFP) – Women are increasingly making their mark in men's fashion, breaking through the "fabric ceiling" that has seen the industry dominated by men, and attracted by a sector where some of the most radical changes are taking place.

Fashion has long been an industry focused predominantly on women but run by men, with a 2019 study by PriceWaterhouseCooper showing just 12.5 percent of fashion houses had female bosses.

While change is slow at the top, the latest men's fashion week in Paris that wrapped up on Sunday highlighted the number of exciting women designers choosing to focus on menswear.

Grace Wales Bonner's opening night show in a Place Vendome hotel -- her first physical event in Paris -- was one of the hottest tickets.

Known for literary references and highlighting black and minority artists, it was clear why she is considered a frontrunner to replace the late Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.

"I went into menswear because I thought there's a lot more room for expression," she told AFP.

"It feels like it's not overdeveloped -- (menswear) can be quite conservative at times."

It was well-received, with Bloomingdale's men's director Justin Berkowitz praising her "sharp tailoring... with charming details for a spot-on, personal collection".

Bode, meanwhile, returned to Paris for the first time since the pandemic, with a vintage collection inspired by rural America and her mother's family.

Known for handcrafted clothes, often made from recycled materials, she was named menswear designer of the year at the CFDA Awards in 2022.

'Fewer cliches'

There were also shows from France's Marine Serre, who has disrupted the industry with her determined adherence to sustainability, and Britain's Bianca Saunders, who told AFP she was attracted to menswear because it offered "a different canvas where I could be very explorative".

Wales Bonner, Bode, Serre and Saunders are all in their early thirties, but more experienced designers like Gabriela Hearst and Isabel Marant have also launched menswear lines in recent years as the sector hots up.

"Men chase an ideal -- today I want to feel like Marlon Brando so I throw on a leather jacket," said Hermes shoe designer Pierre Hardy, a longtime collaborator of Veronique Nichanian, who has headed menswear at the label for 35 years.

"Women come with fewer cliches, with an external and more neutral perspective," he told AFP.

"They have an eye that is more centred on reality, with a bit of distance and less fantasy," agreed Alice Feillard, menswear buying director at Paris department store Galeries Lafayette.

A new crop is hot on their heels -- among them France's Jeanne Friot, who presented a flamboyant, bright-red collection as part of a newcomer's showcase in Paris.

"As a woman designer and a lesbian, I have a different perspective on men and fashion," said Friot, whose most popular piece is an upcycled pair of jeans made from feathers.

"Men need to have more options in their wardrobe than just black, white and grey -- why not some pieces that are more feminine and fun," she said.

Online tools that can create wonderful, absurd and sometimes horrifying images using artificial intelligence (AI) have exploded in popularity, sparking soul-searching over the nature of art.

Tech companies tout their inventions as a liberating force of art for all, but purists argue that the artist is still the central cog in the machine.

Art historian and AI expert Emily L. Spratt, whose forthcoming book tackles the ethics and regulation of AI art, told AFP that the art world has not yet found a response to the potentially transformative technology.

Punch a few keywords into an AI art tool -- something like "Brad Pitt in a rowing boat in space in the style of Mondrian" -- and seconds later boldly coloured line drawings will emerge of the Hollywood star, paddling in the stars.

 

There are plenty of fans of tools like Midjourney, Stable Diffusion and DALL-E 2 who have proclaimed this as the democratisation of art.

But Spratt reckons such tools are more about "entertainment and clickbait" than art.

"It is a way to foster engagement with platforms, which is of course going to help these companies," she said.

 

"The idea that it is solely a tool of empowerment or that it will democratise the space is overly simplistic -- it's naive."

Rather, she sees the boundary between AI and other technology becoming blurred, pointing to the image manipulation programs already widely used.

"I see the future of AI as being part of the omnipresent background architecture for all digital image-making processes," she said.

"It will be hard to avoid it because it seeps into all of our digital interactions, often unbeknownst to us, especially when we create, edit, or search images."

Beyond the simple online tools that anyone can use, there are plenty of artists labouring over their own algorithms with bespoke datasets.

These works sell for tens of thousands, sometimes hundreds of thousands.

A standout practitioner, said Spratt, is German artist Mario Klingemann whose "Hyperdimensional Attraction Series, Bestiary" is a high point of the genre.

"It is a video of seemingly organic forms that morph from one physical entity to another and momentarily appear as recognisable animals," she said.

"Honestly, it's a bit unnerving but it works well as a commentary on the dividing lines between the material and immaterial and the limits of generative AI to replicate the natural world."

She said his art is constantly asking questions about AI as a medium, and more widely about the nature of creativity.

Until relatively recently, there was very little buzz around AI outside of video installations, largely because there was no bank of digital images with clear labels.

Without the source material, there could be no AI art as we know it today.

That changed a decade ago when several projects began to supply huge quantities of digital images, sparking an explosion in creativity.

A French collective called Obvious sold a work for more than $400,000 in 2018 after keenly embracing the idea that the AI "created" the work.

That sale became hugely controversial after it emerged that they had used an algorithm written by artist and programmer Robbie Barrat.

 

"The reason that the Obvious artwork sold, especially at that price, was largely because it was advertised as the first AI artwork to be offered at a major auction house," said Spratt.

"It was really the art market experimenting with the offering of an AI artwork in step with long-established approaches to the sale of fine art."

At that moment, she said, there was huge interest in bringing together the tech sector and the art world.

But the tech industry has since been hit by a dramatic economic slump and investment and interest have waned.

Major auction houses like Christie's and Sotheby's have since worked hard to create separate platforms for selling AI art.

"It's like they don't want to sully fine art with these new digital explorations," Spratt said.

And critics are yet to catch up with the field and really express what is good, bad or indifferent, she reckoned.

"Unfortunately, the AI art discourse is not there yet, but I think it is on its way, and it should come from the field of art history," she insisted.

 
 
 

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