Seoul (AFP) – K-pop stars BTS drink it. It appears in K-dramas. Fans are so dedicated to consuming it year-round they've coined a new South Korean proverb: "Even if I freeze to death, iced Americano!"

The humble coffee -- shots of espresso served over ice, topped up with water -- has become South Korea's unofficial national drink, outselling its hot counterpart even during the depths of winter, Starbucks data shows.

Office worker Lee Ju-eun, clad in an ankle-length puffer jacket, shivered on the pavement in downtown Seoul as she clutched her iced coffee during a polar Vortex cold snap in January, when temperatures hit minus 17 degrees Celsius (1.4 degrees Fahrenheit).

"I only drink this. Iced Americano is easier to drink and also tastier, so I enjoy drinking it even in winter," she told AFP, gingerly holding the edge of her frozen plastic cup.

"I'm cold but it's okay. I can endure it," she said.

Accountant Lee Dae-hee told AFP he drank iced Americanos exclusively because it was a faster and more efficient caffeine hit, essential in South Korea's hard-driving "ppalli-ppalli" -- hurry-hurry -- work culture.

"I quickly drink iced Americano to wake up and work," Lee said as he tried to shield his large cup of coffee from the driving snow while rushing back to his office after lunch.

"It doesn't make me cold because I go straight to the office and I don't spend much time outside," he said.

'Ah-Ah'

South Koreans take their coffee seriously.

The average South Korean drinks 353 cups per year, more than double the global average, according to a 2019 study by the Hyundai Research Institute.

Coffee culture has even spawned its own language.

Iced Americano is known as "Ah-Ah" and its die-hard drinkers are known as "Eoljuka", a contraction of a new proverb proclaiming they'd freeze to death for their drink.

 

The trend has been noticed by corporate coffee giant Starbucks Korea, which ran an "ice challenge" promotion where "Eoljuka" got a free size upgrade when they ordered in late January's sub-zero temperatures.

Iced drinks accounted for 76 percent of total sales at Starbucks stores in South Korea in 2022, the company said. Even during January's cold snap they sold more iced Americanos -- 54 percent -- than hot ones.

"People's tendency of consuming goods, food and beverages regardless of the weather seem to have become a new trend," Park Han-jo from Starbucks Korea told AFP.

Independent coffee shops said their data showed the same thing. Kim Bum-soo, who owns a cafe in downtown Seoul, said around half his coffee sales were iced Americanos, all year round.

"It does seem that Koreans prefer cold drinks," Kim told AFP, adding that foreign tourists, especially Chinese, tended to order warm tea even in summer.

Consuming cold water and iced beverages is forbidden in traditional Chinese medicine. However, "Koreans just drink whatever they want, regardless of whether it's cold or hot outside," Kim said.

- Cold noodles -

One reason Seoul office workers love iced Americanos could be that their workspaces are too hot and stuffy, cafe owner Kim said.

Self-confessed "Eoljukah" Jeong Jae-won, 30, agreed.

 

"It's warm inside the office so I'm going to drink it there," she said.

It's not just office workers who love the beverage. K-Pop megastar Suga of BTS is frequently photographed with an iced Americano in hand, despite telling fans he was trying to cut back on caffeine.

Foreign K-pop fans have discussed at length in online forums NCT Dream's Jaemin's preferred version of "Ah-Ah": eight shots of espresso served over ice.

South Korea's "Ah-Ah" addiction could be linked to its cuisine, said Jang Jun-woo, a food columnist who runs a tapas wine bar.

Food such as the cold noodle dish naengmyun, which is served with ice cubes in the broth, is an integral part of local tradition but rarely seen elsewhere.

"Even in Japan people don't actually put ice in their cold udon noodles," Jang told AFP.

"The degree of cold food culture is more extreme in Korea and that may explain the popularity and prevalence of iced coffee here."

Seoul, South Korea- It wasn't the nuclear missiles, ranks of goose-stepping soldiers or medal-bedecked generals that captivated most attention at North Korea's recent military parade: it was a 10-year-old girl.

Alongside the country's leader Kim Jong Un, the girl -- likely Kim's second child Ju Ae -- inspected a guard of honour in the most recent of a slew of high-profile appearances that have sparked fervent speculation she has been anointed his heir.

AFP takes a look at what we know:

 

Who is she?

 

For years, North Korean state media never mentioned Kim's children, although Seoul's spy agency has said he has three with his wife. They are believed to be aged around 13, 10 and six.

The only previous confirmation of their existence had come from former NBA star Dennis Rodman, who claimed he met a baby daughter of Kim's called Ju Ae during a 2013 visit to North Korea.

But three months ago, at the launch of his most powerful intercontinental ballistic missile, Kim turned up with his "beloved" daughter in tow.

Although North Korea has never officially identified her by name, Seoul's spy agency and analysts believe the girl is Ju Ae, Kim's second child.

 

Is she Kim's heir?

 

It certainly looks that way, experts say.

State media has called her Kim's "beloved" and "respected" daughter, and she has been shown walking hand-in-hand with her father -- as her mother trailed behind them.

This indicates North Korea has started building a "personality cult" around Ju Ae, said Cheong Seong-chang, a researcher at South Korea's Sejong Institute.

It "signals that she has been designated as the de facto successor even though she doesn't hold the official 'successor' status yet", he said.

In state media images, Ju Ae has been placed in the middle, next to her father and surrounded by the country's top brass.

"It suggests that Kim Ju Ae will become the supreme commander of the military in the future," Cheong added.

 

 

Will North Korea accept a woman leader?

 

When it comes to women assuming political leadership roles, North Korea's glass ceiling has been bulletproof, says Bronwen Dalton, head of the department of management at the University of Technology Sydney's business school.

But change is afoot, she said, and North Korea's leadership is trying to "maintain its legitimacy by creating a new version of womanhood" that reflects social changes in the country over recent decades.

Younger generations have "grown up buying and selling in markets, using mobile phones and accessing foreign media content", which has forced North Korea to recalibrate its version of an ideal woman.

North Korea's current leadership, although predominantly male, does have some high-profile women, including foreign minister Choe Son-hui and Kim's younger sister Kim Yo Jong as a regime spokeswoman.

Kim Jong Un is "presiding over a propaganda apparatus forging a new narrative on the place of women", Dalton told AFP.

But crucially, the most important role of all North Korean women remains "devotion to their 'father' Kim Jong Un", which Ju Ae embodies perfectly, she added.

 

 

So she'll definitely be in charge one day?

 

Not necessarily, experts say.

"Perhaps more than any other country, relying on family ties and being in the proximity of power is precarious," Dalton said, pointing to a "revolving door" of family members who have been exiled from North Korea or killed.

"Women are not immune," she added.

A female leader remains "impossible" in North Korea for now, An Chan-il, a defector turned researcher who runs the World Institute for North Korea Studies, told AFP.

"No one would welcome the idea if Kim Jong Un disappeared right away and Ju Ae had to succeed him," he said.

But her gradual introduction to the public over the next decade or two, coupled with "ideological education", should help, he said.

"The North Koreans seldom question who becomes the ruler."

 

What about Pyongyang's nuclear arsenal?

 

While North Korea is not a monarchy, Kim Jong Un is the third generation of his family to rule the country, after his father and grandfather, founding leader Kim Il Sung.

For the Kims, one of the most important elements of regime preservation has been their nuclear and ballistic missile programmes.

"Celebrations of North Korea's nuclear-capable missile build-up may seem like strange occasions to project a child-friendly image," but they are effective domestic propaganda, Leif-Eric Easley, a professor at Ewha University in Seoul, told AFP.

"Kim is portraying Pyongyang's nuclear arsenal as a multigenerational asset to national security while proclaiming the military's complete loyalty to his political dynasty."

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© Agence France-Presse

New York (AFP) – After a starring role in last year's Super Bowl broadcast, cryptocurrency firms are expected to sit out the 2023 game.

But the annual advertising extravaganza -- a kind of competition among marketers that runs parallel to the American football championship -- features an array of beer and car companies, along with other familiar brands like M&M's candies, which has been teasing its spot since last month.

This year's slate of commercials revives the cult hit "Breaking Bad," whose cast reunites to pitch PopCorners chips, as well as a collaboration between General Motors and Netflix that shows an electric car navigating "Squid Games" and other settings from streaming hits.

The spots garner top dollar, typically $6 or $7 million for 30 seconds of air time. That's roughly 10 times the cost of an ad during the 2022 World Cup match between the United States and Britain.

Last year's game generated $578 million in advertising revenues for NBC, up $143.8 million from the prior year's telecast, according to Kantar, a data analytics and brand consultancy.

This year's game is being telecast by Fox Sports.

"It's a lot of money for a media spot," said Derek Rucker, a marketing professor at Northwestern University. But "where else can you get 100 million people to see an ad at the same time?"

The ads have become such as big component of the game in the United States that among "a massive number of people, you have consumers who actively watch and discuss the commercials" at gatherings, Rucker said.

Keeping it light

Held each year in the dead of winter, "Super Bowl Sunday" marks an occasion for families and friends to gather for several hours of competition, revelry and entertainment.

This year's game will be between the Kansas City Chiefs and the Philadelphia Eagles. As always, the show includes A-list half-time entertainment, this time headlined by Rihanna.

Over-the-top ads are an old tradition and include such epochal spots as Ridley Scott's minute-long commercial for Apple in 1984 announcing the Macintosh computer.

The spot, which features a female athlete smashing a screen showing a "Big Brother" figure, riffs on the famous novel by George Orwell, concluding with a vow that the computer's arrival will show "why 1984 won't be like '1984.'"

This year's most anticipated commercial may be for M&M's, which began tiptoeing into the US cultural wars a few weeks ago.

On January 24, M&M's, which is owned by Mars, announced it was freezing a publicity drive featuring cartoon mascots of the colored candies after the campaign was criticized as "woke" by US conservatives because of stylistic changes, such as the introduction of a purple character, a color associated with the LGBTQ community.

M&M's announced an "indefinite pause" of the "spokescandies" and unveiled a new brand ambassador -- the popular comedian Maya Rudolph -- in a shift that was timed perfectly for grabbing public attention ahead of a splashy Super Bowl ad.

Andrew Frank, an analyst at Gartner, does not expect politically controversial ads this year, predicting brands will navigate carefully in a divided country where strident messages can backfire.

"The antidote to backlash is humor, keeping it light," Frank said. "I think they would like to deescalate all of the toxicity around culture wars and things like that."

Beer bash

Last year's game featured several prominent spots on the emerging cryptocurrency market, led by the then-titan FTX and its founder Samuel Bankman-Fried.

Since then, FTX has collapsed and Bankman-Fried has been indicted for fraud.

The fall of FTX and Bankman-Fried has created "an appropriate time for them to take a pause," Frank said.

Countering that loss of advertising, broadcaster Fox can count on revenues from a wider range of beer companies following the expiration of a longstanding exclusivity deal with Anheuser-Busch, the owner of the Budweiser brand.

Frank expects most spots will go after "leisure spending with lighthearted messages of escapist entertainment," he said.

The aim is to "impart a sense that everything is okay and that you don't need to be so frugal about your discretionary spending."

Paris, France - 

When the damselfly reappeared in France in 2009 after a 133-year absence, it was considered a small miracle.

But the dragonfly's smaller cousin hasn't been seen in four years, sparking fresh fears it may be gone for good -- a worrying indicator of the health of the world's precious wetlands in which it breeds.

Damselflies face menaces on multiple fronts. In Asia, the wetlands and jungles in which they live are often cleared for crops like palm oil. In Latin America their habitats are razed to build houses and offices.

In Europe and North America, pesticides, pollutants and climate change have posed the biggest threat.

So when the Nehalennia speciosa damselfly was spotted in wetlands in the Jura region of eastern France for the first time since 1876, scientists were overjoyed -- calling the rediscovery an "ecological scoop".

But that comeback was probably only a "remission from the collapse that our biodiversity is suffering," said naturalist Francois Dehondt.

The last confirmed sighting was in 2019, when a severe drought gripped the Jura, and experts fear there might not be a second comeback.

"The water source that shelters the insect was reduced to nothing" by drought, Dehondt wrote in France's Le Monde newspaper in December.

In 2020, water levels remained low. The following year, some water returned to the bogs of the Jura where a dozen or so damselflies had been spotted in 2009.

And then last year -- the hottest on record in France -- the region was once again parched.

Damselflies were nowhere to be seen.

 

- 'Warning lights' -

 

With a slender green-blue body that resembles bamboo and delicate translucent wings, the Nehalennia speciosa might look like a dragonfly to the untrained eye.

But at about 25 millimetres (less than an inch) long, Europe's smallest damselflies don't fly as well and often need to be shaken from bushes to be seen, making them very hard to detect.

The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) said 16 percent of all 6,016 dragonfly and damselfly species globally risk extinction. In France, the damselfly is classified as "critically endangered".

France's Office for Insects and their Environment (OPIE), which is in charge of monitoring damselflies, suspects the subspecies has disappeared again.

"Given the state of environmental degradation and drought that we have seen for years, (the likelihood of seeing a damselfly in the Jura) is really very compromised," OPIE's Xavier Houard told AFP.

"The warning lights are red. But it's too soon to be completely certain," he added.

The agency will only confirm a "proven disappearance" of a species after 25 years of "non-observation" during which thorough searches are carried out.

And Houard has not lost hope just yet.

"The species has already demonstrated its ability to pass under the radar of observers" for over a century, he said.

 

- World Wetlands Day -

 

The demise of France's damselflies further underpins how vulnerable the country's wetlands are -- a reality across Europe and indeed the world.

"Globally, these ecosystems are disappearing three times faster than forests," IUCN director general Bruno Oberle said in 2021 when the organisation updated its Red List of Threatened Species.

Since 1900 an estimated 64 percent of the world's wetlands -- which include lakes, rivers, marshes, lagoons and peat bogs -- have disappeared, according to the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands treaty.

Wetlands are crucial for the planet's health. They store 25 percent of the world's carbon and provide clean water and food. Up to 40 percent of the world's species live and breed in wetlands, according to the United Nations.

Yet a quarter are in danger of extinction.

The UN -- which marks World Wetlands Day on Thursday -- said there is an "urgent need" to restore 50 percent of destroyed wetlands by 2030.

In the meantime, France's scientists continue to scour for the elusive damselfly, whose very presence is "a wonderful indicator... of the health of wetlands", according to Houard.

Their disappearance would be nothing short of an "alarm bell", he added.

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© Agence France-Press

Paris (AFP) – Could humanity finally be gaining the upper hand in our age-old fight against cancer?

 

Recent scientific and medical advances have added several new weapons to our arsenal, including personalised gene therapy, artificial intelligence screening, simple blood tests -- and potentially soon vaccines.

Cancer accounted for nearly 10 million deaths -- almost one in six of the global total -- in 2020, according to the World Health Organization.

Ahead of World Cancer Day on Saturday, here are some of the promising recent developments in diagnosing and treating the disease.

 

Immunotherapy

Immunotherapy drugs, which stimulate the immune system to track down and kill cancerous cells, have been one the biggest advances in cancer treatment over the last decade.

With fewer severe side effects than chemotherapy, immunotherapy has had a profound effect on the treatment of several types of cancer.

Before 2010, the survival rate for people with severe cases of the skin cancer melanoma was very low. But thanks to immunotherapy drugs, some patients can now live for 10 years or more.

However not all tumours respond to immunotherapy, which has its own side effects.

"We are only at the beginning of immunotherapy," said Bruno Quesnel, research director at France's National Cancer Institute.

Pierre Saintigny, an oncologist at France's Leon Berard cancer centre, said that different kinds of immunotherapy treatments will need to be combined "as intelligently as possible."

 

"With immunotherapy, we have moved up a level in cancer treatment, but steps still need to be taken for all the patients who do not benefit from it," he added.

CAR-T therapy

CAR-T therapy involves taking the T-cells from the blood of an individual patient and modifying them in a laboratory.

Then the T-cells, which are part of the immune system, are injected back into the patient, newly trained to target cancerous cells.

Another technique called Allogeneic CAR-T involves getting the cells from a different, healthy person.

So far, CAR-T therapies have mainly been effective against some kinds of leukaemia, and the process remains very expensive.

Artificial intelligence

Computer programmes using artificial intelligence (AI) have been shown to identify brain and breast cancer from routine scans with more accuracy than humans.

With AI research booming across a range of fields, it is expected to play an increasing role in other ways to diagnose cancer.

"Thanks to artificial intelligence, we will be able to identify which patients can benefit from shorter treatment," said Fabrice Andre, an oncologist France's Gustave Roussy cancer institute.

 

"With immunotherapy, we have moved up a level in cancer treatment, but steps still need to be taken for all the patients who do not benefit from it," he added.

CAR-T therapy

CAR-T therapy involves taking the T-cells from the blood of an individual patient and modifying them in a laboratory.

Then the T-cells, which are part of the immune system, are injected back into the patient, newly trained to target cancerous cells.

Another technique called Allogeneic CAR-T involves getting the cells from a different, healthy person.

So far, CAR-T therapies have mainly been effective against some kinds of leukaemia, and the process remains very expensive.

Artificial intelligence

Computer programmes using artificial intelligence (AI) have been shown to identify brain and breast cancer from routine scans with more accuracy than humans.

With AI research booming across a range of fields, it is expected to play an increasing role in other ways to diagnose cancer.

"Thanks to artificial intelligence, we will be able to identify which patients can benefit from shorter treatment," said Fabrice Andre, an oncologist France's Gustave Roussy cancer institute.

Los Angeles (AFP) – There is no clear frontrunner for this year's prestigious Grammy for Best New Artist, but Brazil's Anitta definitely has a strong chance to win -- which would be the perfect way to cap her banner year.

 
 

It's been nearly 60 years since a Brazilian was nominated in the category, when Astrud Gilberto immortalized the classic "The Girl From Ipanema."

But while Gilberto -- the ex-wife of fellow bossa nova pioneer Joao Gilberto -- won Record of the Year with Stan Getz for that hit, the prize for Best New Artist eluded her when she lost out to The Beatles.

Now Anitta hopes to snag the award at this Sunday's ceremony, bringing the moment full circle.

The 29-year-old added a twist to the Brazilian classic with "Girl from Rio," one of the hits from her fifth studio album, "Versions of Me."

"As a Brazilian woman and a Latina, this nomination means so much to me, and fills me with pride," she told AFP in an interview. "I'm really excited."

 

Over the past year, Anitta grew into a global phenomenon thanks to her smash "Envolver."

Streamed more than 100 million times in just its first few weeks, the song set a global record for Spotify plays, while going viral on TikTok with a hip-shaking dance craze.

These days, "nothing makes me lose sleep over my career," Anitta says. "I've already accomplished so much more than I ever could have dreamed of."

- Brazilian flavor -

Born Larissa de Macedo Machado, the artist constructed her career block by block, conquering her native Brazil before breaking into the international market.

She has collaborated with superstars including Cardi B, Snoop Dogg, Missy Elliott, Maluma, J Balvin, Ozuna and Becky G.

Anitta -- who studied English and Spanish as well as French and Italian -- is a social media master and explosive stage performer with legions of fans.

 

Last spring, she made waves at Coachella, one of the premier US music festivals.

Now she is competing against an eclectic crop of Best New Artist nominees including Omar Apollo, Maneskin and Samara Joy for one of the Recording Academy's top Grammys.

With more than a decade in the music business under her belt, Anitta is far from a novelty. But one of the main criteria for Best New Artist is making a breakthrough into the public consciousness, primarily in the US market.

And for Anitta, that breakthrough has practically been a new beginning.

The artist raised in a lower-middle class neighborhood in Rio de Janeiro says she's betting on internationalizing her sound while maintaining a Brazilian flavor.

"My biggest challenge in my international career is communicating with a global audience while also maintaining my essence, my origins and my references," she says.

Anitta also says she's been trying to take a moment to slow down after spending countless hours on planes to manage a relentless touring schedule that sees her ping-ponging between continents.

"Today I'm taking on my career with more lightness, being kind to myself and my health," she says.

"I've been spending more time with my family and on self-care, so I've ended up slowing down a bit."

 

Even so, this year began with a series of shows in Brazil entitled "Anitta's Rehearsals" -- a warm-up of sorts for carnival, the country's biggest party of the year.

"These performances were super-dynamic, with lots of energy and lasting up to four hours," Anitta explained.

Asked what's in the pipeline, the superstar maintained an air of mystery: "I can't reveal it."

Sollentuna, Sweden-

The frigid water under the frozen Ravalen lake north of Stockholm doesn't intimidate Elton as the 11-year-old schoolboy takes the plunge to the applause of his classmates.

Forty pupils are taking part in an "isvaksovning", or a hole-in-the-ice exercise, part of their school's physical education class to learn what to do if they ever fall through the ice on one of Sweden's many lakes or out in the archipelago.

Every day for three weeks, 750 pupils in Sollentuna municipality will take turns jumping into the hole in the ice, which measures about two by four metres (6.5 by 13 feet).

Courses like this are common in the Nordic country.

For the students taking part on this day, it's optional if they want to jump in -- but all of them do.

Holding his head above the one degree Celsius (34 Fahrenheit) water, Elton grabs two small ice picks hanging around his neck, jabs them into the ice and drags himself out onto the snow-covered lake.

Many Swedes would not think of stepping out onto the ice without a pair of picks.

Without them, it's extremely difficult to get back onto the ice without slipping back into the chilly water.

"It was much colder than I thought it would be," Elton tells AFP, as he warms himself around a fire pit together with his classmates.

"But I still managed to stay in for 30 seconds".

His mother, Marie Ericsson, who works in IT, came to film the scene.

"It's super important. It's really good knowledge and it feels safer for us, because they are always playing around lots of lakes," she tells AFP.

The kids are fully clothed when they jump in wearing winter bonnets, mitts, shoes or boots and all.

They have big backpacks strapped on, which also help them float, and are attached to a safety rope held by gym teacher Anders Isaksson.

 

- Outdoor way of life -

 

Some of the kids shriek when they land in the cold water.

"Good! Breathe calmly", Isaksson reminds them as they slither out onto the ice.

Most of the kids look apprehensive before it's their turn.

But once they're done most seem surprisingly unfazed, albeit freezing and soaked. They run to shore to change into dry clothes, and gather around a fire pit.

The classes gained importance in recent years amid a rise in ice accidents after declining for decades.

According to the Swedish Life Rescue Society, 16 people died in Sweden after falling through the ice in 2021 -- mostly elderly people -- compared to 10 the previous year.

Around 100 incidents were reported.

"This is important because this is a country where outdoor activities are a big part of people's lives," PE teacher Anders Isaksson notes.

For some, the plunge also offers an opportunity to test their mettle.

When Siri Franzen, 11, jumps in she endures a full two and a half minutes before dragging herself up.

"I am very proud of her," her mother Louise tells AFP. "She has just beaten her brother's record from four years ago."

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© Agence France-Presse

ZURICH: Swiss watches are in high demand these days, but sales of second-hand timepieces are also booming, driven by Generation Z buyers who want luxury goods but are also sustainability-minded.

The global second-hand watch market is estimated at nearly 20 billion Swiss francs ($21.7 billion) and could reach 35 billion francs by 2030, according to a study out in October by the auditing and consulting giant Deloitte.

Historically the province of collectors scouting for rare watches at auction, the second-hand market is turning increasingly professional with the proliferation of online sales sites that verify authenticity — with even the watch manufacturers themselves getting involved.

"Nowadays, there is a realization that we need to consume more responsibly," said Fabienne Lupo, the former head of the Foundation High Horology, who organized a second-hand luxury watch salon in Geneva in November.

The event was attended by the online auction giant eBay, the watch sales platform Watchbox, and Swiss brands such as Zenith.

 

Never say new again

Lupo said the craze for second-hand watches could be explained by the consumer choices of Millennials (born between 1980 and the late 1990s) and Generation Z (born between 1997 and 2010) who are "very concerned about the future of the planet, and no longer want to buy new."

There is also the fashion for vintage objects "that you can't find everywhere," she said.

And furthermore, buying certain Swiss luxury watches new is getting harder, as the booming market means longer waiting lists.

Swiss watch exports hit a new record in 2022, climbing 11.4 percent year-on-year to 24.8 billion Swiss francs, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry announced Tuesday.

 

"And then there is the digitalization which has accelerated with the pandemic," Lupo told AFP.

The growth in the pre-owned watch market is such that the British online platform Subdial has developed an index tracking the 50 most-traded models.

The average price fell from a record 45,000 Swiss francs in February 2022 to 35,000 francs in September, which Deloitte called a "correction" rather than a sign that the market was shrinking.

Sales platforms for certified pre-owned (CPO) watches are multiplying online, with the sector still attracting new entrants, including the US site Bezel, which counts former Disney president Michael Ovitz, comedian Kevin Hart and singer John Legend among its investors.

 

The luxury giant Richemont — which owns the Cartier, IWC and Piaget brands — entered the field as early as 2018, buying the British platform Watchfinder.

Rolex also took the plunge in December, pulling the rug from beneath the counterfeiters by launching a CPO program with the Swiss retailer Bucherer, which authenticates the watches.

The program is set up in six countries, including Britain and France, with the aim of extending it to the United States in the future.

 

Watch your image

"Watch manufacturers typically have been worried about the secondary market as it was closely associated with the grey market, where discounted watches could be found," said Jon Cox, an industry analyst with the Kepler Cheuvreux financial services company.

"However, they realize there is a halo effect of having strong secondary prices, enhancing the brand value of the primary watches," he told Agence France-Presse.

For top-end luxury brands like Richard Mille, where average watch prices exceed 260,000 Swiss francs, second-hand timepieces are even a way of enhancing their image.

"We might have a client who tells us, 'there was a limited edition of 100 watches; it was always my dream to buy one and now I have the money — but you no longer make them and they are almost impossible to find'," said Alexandre Mille, who took over from his father who founded the brand.

Mille said his teams can seek out the sought-after timepiece.

Deloitte's study found that buying a cheaper watch was the main motivation for 44 percent of respondents.

But Cox also noted that second-hand watches were a "store of wealth", being "worn and shown off for years but still retaining value to be resold so another watch can be bought in its place."

 
 
 

Kyiv (Ukraine) (AFP) – The hundreds of people posting Instagram selfies in leopard-print outfits in recent days launched fashion into geopolitics for Ukraine's successful campaign to get Germany's powerful Leopard battle tanks.

Just moments after Germany finally agreed to deliver 14 Leopard tanks on Wednesday, Presidential chief of staff Andriy Yermak joined in posting the same number of leopard emojis.

Berlin also granted approval for other European countries to send tanks from their own stocks.

The move came after days of international pressure on Germany to sign off on the deliveries to Kyiv, which included a viral campaign from the Ukrainian government.

"Put on your favourite leopard clothes and post a selfie with #FreeTheLeopards," Ukraine.ua, the country's official account, posted on Instagram Sunday.

 

"Let's bring Leopard tanks to Ukraine!"

Ukraina.ua was taking up a hashtag that appeared a few days prior and gained traction as pressure on Germany spilled over onto social media.

The video on Ukraine.ua featured an iconic scene from the movie "Fifth Element" with Ruby Rhod (played by Chris Tucker) prancing in a leopard-print jumpsuit and tanks covered in the same pattern.

The video received around 78,000 likes and triggered a flood of photos: people boasting matching nail designs, swimsuits or even furry overalls.

A photoshopped portrait of Ukraine's iconic 19th century poet Taras Shevchenko also made the rounds, his dark coat and hat covered in animal print.

"Now it's official: Leopards will come to Ukraine," Ukrainian MP Yevgeniya Kravchuk, dressed in a leopard turtleneck, trumpeted on Facebook after Wednesday's announcement.

Kyiv is working to ensure Berlin's green light encourages other countries to send over more high-grade weapons.

"Let's keep working. Let's start dressing up like F-16 and ATACMS," said young philosopher Sergey Koshman on Facebook, referring to the fighter planes and long-range American missiles that Ukraine has been requesting for months.

Paris, France - A commission that seeks to act as a guardian of the French language has published a string of recommendations for translations of shopping and style terms, to replace widely-used English ones.

Perhaps inspired by this month's Paris Fashion Week, the non-binding recommendations from the Commission for Enrichment of the French Language were published in Wednesday's Official Journal.

Instead of an "it-bag" -- defined as "a handbag in the latest fashion or that stands for a brand" -- ministries and businesses are encouraged to write "sac iconique".

An "it-boy" or "it-girl" can now safely be described as an "icone de la mode" and a "must-have" transforms into an "incontournable", while "try before you buy" becomes "essayer-acheter".

 

There are also more baffling business terms that may be unfamiliar to many native English speakers, like "digital native vertical brand" ("marque integree nee en ligne").

Set up in 2015, the Commission for Enrichment of the French Language aims to "provide French vocabulary appropriate to the need for communication that is clear and accessible to the greatest number of people", it said in the introduction to its 2021 annual report.

Led by a member of the Academie Francaise -- founded in 1635 under King Louis XIII to guard "pure" French -- the Commission says it "recalls to a broad audience the importance of having and using French vocabulary so as to keep our language functional".

Given the dominance of English in global business and technology, its terms are the most frequently targeted for translation into the language of Moliere.

"These days there's no invention, innovation or discovery that doesn't have its corresponding term, increasingly often in English," the Commission said in its report.

"The flow of new concepts that must be defined and named in French is therefore continuous."

The report cited fields including hydrogen power, the Covid-19 pandemic and malicious digital activities as recent areas to which its 20-odd expert groups have turned their attention.

 

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