Paris, France-Greece may want for gold right now, but Elie Saab's collection of gilded lace gowns with intricately woven motifs harked back to a time when Byzantine princesses had all the sparkle their hearts desired.

The Lebanese designer's autumn/winter couture collection of evening gowns -- and a few jumpsuits -- bore all of the translucence and intricate embroidery for which he has become known.

But this time, the opulent dresses which have become a firm favourite on the red-carpet, were all about the gold in a throwback to Saab's early work in the nineties -- before Halle Berry won an Oscar wearing one of his dresses in 2002 and he hit the big time.

Saab said his original gowns were "reinterpreted to evoke the glistening, golden palaces of Byzantium."

In another nod to the nineties, models with golden laurels woven into their hair walked the catwalk to the throbbing strains of Nirvana which had the front row glitterati bopping their heads and singing along to Kurt Cobain's lyrics.

Painstakingly embroidered vines and foliage covered a variety of dresses in lace, silk tulle and chiffon, several of which had flowing floor-length capes.

Mink fur crept in on cropped sleeves, collars and purses.

Aside from the ubiquitous gold, earthy green, burgundy and black also made their way into the collection.

A nostalgic Saab closed off the show with a wedding gown described as "the very soul" of the house.

The gold, sleeveless gown with a voluminous skirt, long train and lace embroidered veil was a reminder of the gold Saab dress worn by wife Claudine at his own wedding, 25 years ago this month.

The second-to-last day of the Paris couture shows will also see Karl Lagerfeld unveil a collection celebrating his 50 years with Italy's Fendi, which has hailed the "longest relationship between a designer and a fashion house".

The show will be entirely "haute fourrure" or couture fur -- a material the luxury fashion brand has never shied away from.

Haute couture exists exclusively in Paris and is sustained by a small number of the world's richest women.

The haute couture designation is protected by French law and attributed exclusively by the ministry of industry to 14 houses whose clothes are entirely made by hand and tailored to each client.